My weekend has been delightful. Today it is Sunday and the sun is shining. It was surprisingly cold last night and this morning's walk around the park found the fountains turned off and a sheet of ice over the water's surface of the river. But I have every expectation that the sun will take care of it soon. I enjoyed my stroll around the Serpentine with a tea and a fellow Londoner, whom I had meet unexpectedly on the street two weeks ago. It was interesting to hear about his life and his work, and nice to take my usual walk accompanied by someone - however, I imagine that our differences are more vast than our similarities and I will find myself resuming my solo treks around the river...perfectly content to do so.
Yesterday, Saturday, was perhaps one of the most beautiful days London has seen in my months time. The weather was mild and the breeze blew gently, the sun shone brilliantly and sitting on a bench under its blaze felt toasty. The sky was incredibly blue with only wisps of white clouds and there was an energy and vibrancy to the day. I spent all the sunlight hours outside - walking around the city and the park, and reading. I finished one of the best books I've picked up in a long time - a true classic -Charlotte Bronte's "Jane Eyre" - published here in London in 1847. One of the most captivating literary fictional characters I've journeyed with. She has such character, such spirit...she traversed through the hallows of life - through the depths of despair and wretchedness, to the summit of joy and eternal bliss - a crusader of moral virtue and a disciple of her own will. Self-sacrificing, proud, and vigilant - obedient and generous, awed by beauty, irrevocably altered by the fortune of kindness. She bore witness to pain and suffering of her own hand and yet offered her soul to a higher power and belief of deliverance. She followed her heart and trusted her head - she was incredibly compelling - she was Jane Eyre. I can't stop thinking about her and her journey. That's the way a story is meant to be shared - it's meant to be lived and felt and struggled with.
Friday was a simple day of writing and walking and reading- my standard practices. And although they may appear somewhat mundane and unable to generate much lively inspiration or spontaneous action, I must say - they are the very things which contentment and happiness rest in. This weekend has also been wonderful for talking with family and friends. Must remember to thank the people who created Skype (when I meet them of course) for giving the gift of communication. It is incredible to be thousands of miles away and yet to feel as if I'm sharing the day with those I love.
And so a new day is dawning for you all back home, Sunday morning is greeting you - perhaps you are just waking or yet still dreaming. I am getting ready to spend the afternoon in Balham with friends and a lively game of football. I am aware of the irony that it's Sunday and I'm watching football (as many of you may be) - and yet it's not actually "football" - it's soccer. Manchester United is playing - it is a big game...the pints will be flowing, the yelling and waring will be raging, the bets waging, and I will be highly entertained.
Sunday, January 31, 2010
Saturday, January 30, 2010
Tooting Bec
Thursday - 1/28/10
I can scarcely believe it's been a month since my arrival. Time moves intermittently both fast and slow - giving the illusion that one has more than enough time and yet inspiring concern for it to be done too quickly. A fantastic month it has been. One of the greatest parts has been to meet a few people and to form some acquaintances. And that is how I passed my Thursday in Tooting Bec - getting to know one of my new acquaintances. South of London by about 30 minutes on the tube, Tooting Bec is still quite busy but less exciting than the city - a quaint place with local bars and restaurants. Spent the day with one of my fellow bowling buddies from two weeks past and learned about the trials of an acting career. Frequented a cafe for tea, an italian restaurant for pizza, and spent some time watching Pride and Prejudice. I spent the evening at Bar Viva - their local haunt - and witnessed my first passionate football game. To say that the British are in love with their football seems a gross understatement. They are passionate and loud, and fierce in their loyalty, ready to scorn others, to shout against ridicule, to bare their teeth at opposition...oh the hostility engendered is unbelievable...and quite amusing.
Also amusing was my tube ride back into the city - only the interesting and highly entertaining appear to ride the late hours. I might have thought my fellow riders were going to a costume party, the outfits and face paint appropriate - yet I was mistaken. After obliging a young girl, in a silver leotard with platinum hair and red scarlet lips, to take a picture of her and her friends hanging from the railing in the tube like monkeys, she informed me that they were headed to Leicester Square for some fun. Fun it seems, had already begun many hours before and was to continue into the wee hours of the night!
I can scarcely believe it's been a month since my arrival. Time moves intermittently both fast and slow - giving the illusion that one has more than enough time and yet inspiring concern for it to be done too quickly. A fantastic month it has been. One of the greatest parts has been to meet a few people and to form some acquaintances. And that is how I passed my Thursday in Tooting Bec - getting to know one of my new acquaintances. South of London by about 30 minutes on the tube, Tooting Bec is still quite busy but less exciting than the city - a quaint place with local bars and restaurants. Spent the day with one of my fellow bowling buddies from two weeks past and learned about the trials of an acting career. Frequented a cafe for tea, an italian restaurant for pizza, and spent some time watching Pride and Prejudice. I spent the evening at Bar Viva - their local haunt - and witnessed my first passionate football game. To say that the British are in love with their football seems a gross understatement. They are passionate and loud, and fierce in their loyalty, ready to scorn others, to shout against ridicule, to bare their teeth at opposition...oh the hostility engendered is unbelievable...and quite amusing.
Also amusing was my tube ride back into the city - only the interesting and highly entertaining appear to ride the late hours. I might have thought my fellow riders were going to a costume party, the outfits and face paint appropriate - yet I was mistaken. After obliging a young girl, in a silver leotard with platinum hair and red scarlet lips, to take a picture of her and her friends hanging from the railing in the tube like monkeys, she informed me that they were headed to Leicester Square for some fun. Fun it seems, had already begun many hours before and was to continue into the wee hours of the night!
Manor House
Wednesday - 1/27/10
I explored a new part of London today - quite a ways outside of Zone 1. I took the tube to Zone 3 - to Manor House tube stop where I went to view a flat. It was decidedly not for me and much advised to be only in the future suitable to persons who wish to live in the haze of years of stale smoke. I did not regret my trek to the place unknown, rather it was exciting to be outside the walls of the city. There happened to be a castle, dominating a city square, in the midst of the residential street - called Fleming Castle. How entirely unbelievable it is to gaze upon a bus-stop in one look, and in the next sweep of the eye, to see a centuries old castle, intact and undisturbed, occupying residence of a town, as if it were a grocery store or police station. The contrasts of old and new are everywhere.
Once back in the city, I was walking down Piccadilly street, a bit like a leaf blown about by the winds and disoriented in the swirling masses of people. I was jostled here and there, my step not quick enough for the impatience of the business-focused. Until I came to stop in front of a large store-window. I had passed this beacon many times and had never seen it before...Waterstone's. The columns stood tall and the flags waved exuberantly, a fortress of stone, a haven for the unenlightened - it was....a bookstore! Ha! And an incredible one at that. Five luxurious stories of books, row upon row of scintillating titles and creative words. I walked in my gleeful stupor, touching every book atop the tables, running my hand over the glossy covers, stopping randomly to pick one up and turn it over. I was consumed by sheer delight. Authors I'd never heard before, books I'd never seen - tables of tales that beckoned to entrance one on an entertaining journey. I could actually feel my spine tingle. The pulsing in my veins was energizing...I was held quite captive in this wonderful place.
I eventually made my way to the 6th floor where the 5th View (restaurant, bar, and lounge) is located. I enjoyed a delicious lunch seated by the window - overlooking the rooftops and into the distance over London. It was brilliant. As was my roasted red pepper soup and ploughman's salad. Being so content in this space, I even enjoyed dessert (lemon tart) and tea.
After convincing myself to leave, knowing a return is inevitable, I walked into Fortnum and Mason's - the Queen's appointed place of shopping. This place has quite a history and its elegance is unsurpassed in any other store. Ornate chandeliers, plush carpets, decorative wall coverings...quality is the order of the day. I watched the royal servant-like workers weigh tea to be purchased and stack cakes in glass containers - aside from the many floors of material goods, they also have a confectionary/shop to buys sweets and teas.
I attempted to gain entrance to the Royal Academy of Arts, the current exhibit is Van Gogh - but it was quite crowded and an hour wait in the queue did not excite me...left for another day. I will look forward to seeing it.
I explored a new part of London today - quite a ways outside of Zone 1. I took the tube to Zone 3 - to Manor House tube stop where I went to view a flat. It was decidedly not for me and much advised to be only in the future suitable to persons who wish to live in the haze of years of stale smoke. I did not regret my trek to the place unknown, rather it was exciting to be outside the walls of the city. There happened to be a castle, dominating a city square, in the midst of the residential street - called Fleming Castle. How entirely unbelievable it is to gaze upon a bus-stop in one look, and in the next sweep of the eye, to see a centuries old castle, intact and undisturbed, occupying residence of a town, as if it were a grocery store or police station. The contrasts of old and new are everywhere.
Once back in the city, I was walking down Piccadilly street, a bit like a leaf blown about by the winds and disoriented in the swirling masses of people. I was jostled here and there, my step not quick enough for the impatience of the business-focused. Until I came to stop in front of a large store-window. I had passed this beacon many times and had never seen it before...Waterstone's. The columns stood tall and the flags waved exuberantly, a fortress of stone, a haven for the unenlightened - it was....a bookstore! Ha! And an incredible one at that. Five luxurious stories of books, row upon row of scintillating titles and creative words. I walked in my gleeful stupor, touching every book atop the tables, running my hand over the glossy covers, stopping randomly to pick one up and turn it over. I was consumed by sheer delight. Authors I'd never heard before, books I'd never seen - tables of tales that beckoned to entrance one on an entertaining journey. I could actually feel my spine tingle. The pulsing in my veins was energizing...I was held quite captive in this wonderful place.
I eventually made my way to the 6th floor where the 5th View (restaurant, bar, and lounge) is located. I enjoyed a delicious lunch seated by the window - overlooking the rooftops and into the distance over London. It was brilliant. As was my roasted red pepper soup and ploughman's salad. Being so content in this space, I even enjoyed dessert (lemon tart) and tea.
After convincing myself to leave, knowing a return is inevitable, I walked into Fortnum and Mason's - the Queen's appointed place of shopping. This place has quite a history and its elegance is unsurpassed in any other store. Ornate chandeliers, plush carpets, decorative wall coverings...quality is the order of the day. I watched the royal servant-like workers weigh tea to be purchased and stack cakes in glass containers - aside from the many floors of material goods, they also have a confectionary/shop to buys sweets and teas.
I attempted to gain entrance to the Royal Academy of Arts, the current exhibit is Van Gogh - but it was quite crowded and an hour wait in the queue did not excite me...left for another day. I will look forward to seeing it.
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
The Royal Albert
Tuesday - 1/26/10
I had every intention of seeing the Victoria and Albert Museum - up until I realized I wasn't at the V&A - not even close. I walked through Hyde Park a different way today - towards Kensington Palace, passed the Peter Pan statue and various monuments, and around Round Pond. This little jaunt was extremely entertaining as an entirely new aviary was discovered with an impossibly larger population of birds and ducks, swans, and geese than inhabit the Serpentine. Shocking. The sun was shining, the geese were squawking, and the wind was brisk. I made my way towards the dome of what I thought was the V&A. - The V&A, by the way, is the museum of decorative arts (makes Martha Stewart types very very happy). They have one of the biggest, most eclectic collections of objects - anywhere.
Turns out the beacon I was following was really the Royal Albert Hall. This place is a great piece of architecture, it's a circular building with a domed ceiling, massively proportioned, and ornately decorated. (There is currently a Cirque du Soleil show playing there). Directly across from the Hall is the Albert Memorial. This is something to behold. The steeple rises so high into the air, you have to hold your head to look at it. It has gilded decoration, lavish and intricate carvings, and is so ornate it would be tacky if not for its heritage. It's Prince Albert - sitting on a throne, looking at his Royal Hall. Albert was Queen Victoria's husband, in case you were wondering what the fuss was about.
Anyway - disillusioned and hungry, I braved the raging winds to get to the Serpentine Bar & Grill. I had a wood-oven pizza with spinach and olives and tomatoes. Delicious. I watched the sun set over the river and the daylight make way for the dusk. The people were few and my walk back was leisurely. I decided that although headed for the V&A museum, I had a decent detour and will try again another day.
I had every intention of seeing the Victoria and Albert Museum - up until I realized I wasn't at the V&A - not even close. I walked through Hyde Park a different way today - towards Kensington Palace, passed the Peter Pan statue and various monuments, and around Round Pond. This little jaunt was extremely entertaining as an entirely new aviary was discovered with an impossibly larger population of birds and ducks, swans, and geese than inhabit the Serpentine. Shocking. The sun was shining, the geese were squawking, and the wind was brisk. I made my way towards the dome of what I thought was the V&A. - The V&A, by the way, is the museum of decorative arts (makes Martha Stewart types very very happy). They have one of the biggest, most eclectic collections of objects - anywhere.
Turns out the beacon I was following was really the Royal Albert Hall. This place is a great piece of architecture, it's a circular building with a domed ceiling, massively proportioned, and ornately decorated. (There is currently a Cirque du Soleil show playing there). Directly across from the Hall is the Albert Memorial. This is something to behold. The steeple rises so high into the air, you have to hold your head to look at it. It has gilded decoration, lavish and intricate carvings, and is so ornate it would be tacky if not for its heritage. It's Prince Albert - sitting on a throne, looking at his Royal Hall. Albert was Queen Victoria's husband, in case you were wondering what the fuss was about.
Anyway - disillusioned and hungry, I braved the raging winds to get to the Serpentine Bar & Grill. I had a wood-oven pizza with spinach and olives and tomatoes. Delicious. I watched the sun set over the river and the daylight make way for the dusk. The people were few and my walk back was leisurely. I decided that although headed for the V&A museum, I had a decent detour and will try again another day.
Monday, January 25, 2010
Living with Intention
Somethings you don't know are lost, until you find them. And the inescapable relief and ground-breaking comprehension startles you, because you never knew before that moment, how blessed you were.
I had a great day today that was void of spectacular new adventures out in the world, but complete in earth shattering perspectives inside. My daily walk felt blissful today. I found a boutique with two cards that caught my eye - perfectly attuned to the truths that had been whirling around my mind.
Live With Intention -
walk to the edge.
dare. listen hard.
practice wellness. laugh.
continue to learn.
play with abandon.
appreciate your friends.
do what you love.
live as if this is all there is.
She Lives -
she dances. she sings. she takes, she gives. she serves. she loves and creates.
she dissents. she enlivens. she sees. she grows. she sweats. she changes.
she learns. she laughs. she sheds her skin. she bleeds on the pages of her days.
she walks through walls. she lives with intention.
Cheers to living with intention...and to feeling grateful that I have the opportunity to do so.
I had a great day today that was void of spectacular new adventures out in the world, but complete in earth shattering perspectives inside. My daily walk felt blissful today. I found a boutique with two cards that caught my eye - perfectly attuned to the truths that had been whirling around my mind.
Live With Intention -
walk to the edge.
dare. listen hard.
practice wellness. laugh.
continue to learn.
play with abandon.
appreciate your friends.
do what you love.
live as if this is all there is.
She Lives -
she dances. she sings. she takes, she gives. she serves. she loves and creates.
she dissents. she enlivens. she sees. she grows. she sweats. she changes.
she learns. she laughs. she sheds her skin. she bleeds on the pages of her days.
she walks through walls. she lives with intention.
Cheers to living with intention...and to feeling grateful that I have the opportunity to do so.
Sunday, January 24, 2010
I Need a Kip, I'm Knackered...
Leaves a lot to the imagination doesn't it...Well, I will quickly put your minds at ease, it means, "I need a nap, I'm tired." British slang is fantastic, don't you agree? I am feeling a bit tired, but nothing I can't handle. It seems that my mind is so inspired by the energy of London, it doesn't always want to turn off at night - nor do I want to put down my Kindle. Friday was a lovely grey, misty, drizzly sort of day where umbrellas were on parade and few people about. I thought Kensington Gardens especially beautiful in the rain, and I braved the weather. I did some writing for the majority of the afternoon/evening, and then headed back to the park for a twilight stroll - actually it was closer to midnight. I stayed close to the still bustling Park Lane and watched a throng of party-goers in Black Tie take a break outside "The Ballroom" - very high society.
Saturday held more promise in terms of the weather. I enjoyed a more relaxing jaunt through the city and a stop for groceries and a much-needed hair dryer. It's bright bubble-gum pink by the way. Saturday evening, I thought I'd try out the local pub, The Sussex Arms. It has as lively an atmosphere inside as outside, where the locals blend with the tourists (due to the many small hotels nearby). I was thoroughly entertained by a group of rowdy men from Manchester, getting loud with a small pack from Australia, who were teasing a reserved group from Sweden. I enjoyed my Strongbow and the nightly show.
Today has been a beautiful Sunday...the way Sundays were always meant to be but never knew how. The sun was shining. Speaker's Corner was jamming. The birds were everywhere. As well as the joggers and the dogs, and the people. And despite the cool temperature, people meandered. Art was showcased along the busy streets, vendors waiting to grab people going in or out of the park. Some of it was actually beautiful. Being thoroughly familiar with Hyde park, there's an area that doesn't garner much attention due to the season - The Rose Garden. This is a place that makes you feel like you're standing inside the walls of "The Secret Garden" - I imagine that the brilliance of it in the spring and summer months, is overwhelming. In the rose garden, the traditional English style prevails and there are a multitude of little pathways and circular hideaways that showcase a fountain in each center point. There are archways to walk under that are constructed of the braided vines of trees, and an arched tunnel that, in the summer, will shower down vines of roses to the guests of the garden below. It's a place filled with magic. And today - I found some in action. I was one of the few, walking these paths, and I happened across a solitary rose bush, already in bloom. It stood undisturbed in all its glory - in the middle of January, in the middle of the naked gardens, pink roses blossomed off of the prickly vines, as if in defiance, in rebellion - of the weather. Lovely.
I spent the lunch hour at The Serpentine Bar and Grill, which overlooks the river. I ate my lunch of pesto panini and spicy tomato soup, outside on the patio - in solidarity of defiance, with the rose bush. I then made my way to the Dorchester Hotel - on Park Lane. It is the crown jewel of hotels in London - its prestigious address overlooks Hyde Park, and it's guests include the famous of the silver screen. Only the best of the best stay here. I thought I'd get a glimpse. It's everything luxurious and lovely inside. Incredibly huge (6 foot) urns hold fresh flower art pieces that stand 5 feet into the air - today's theme was yellow, with roses and lilies galore. I enjoyed tea in their central tea room and watched for a glimpse of a celebrity. It was very cozy.
This evening held another new experience - I attended Evensong at St. James's Church in Sussex Gardens (two blocks from my flat). The church is old, built in the 1800's, by a well-known architect buried in Westminster Abbey. This is the church where Oscar Wilde was married 126 years ago. The stained-glass was lovely, the cathedral ceilings tall, and the stone floors worn and smooth. There were perhaps 15 people present for the evening service and a five-person choir sang the entire program. It was amazingly simple and beautiful, with two readings (from the bible) and another reading from a religious book about the lives of the apostles. The music was unbelievable - they sang 'a cappella" except when the pipe organ partook, and the acoustics were fantastic. It was like a personal concert. Although strictly traditional to the Church of England - "God Save the Queen" - it was delightful to be a part of the community for this evening.
Now dinnertime - another ethnic cuisine diversion. Tonight's exploration is Moroccan Tagine over rice. The ingredients profess chickpeas, aubergine, apricot, aromatic spices, tomatoes, and butternut squash. Hmmm... I'll make sure to save some chocolate for dessert, just in case. And, regardless - chocolate seems like a good end to a nice day.
Saturday held more promise in terms of the weather. I enjoyed a more relaxing jaunt through the city and a stop for groceries and a much-needed hair dryer. It's bright bubble-gum pink by the way. Saturday evening, I thought I'd try out the local pub, The Sussex Arms. It has as lively an atmosphere inside as outside, where the locals blend with the tourists (due to the many small hotels nearby). I was thoroughly entertained by a group of rowdy men from Manchester, getting loud with a small pack from Australia, who were teasing a reserved group from Sweden. I enjoyed my Strongbow and the nightly show.
Today has been a beautiful Sunday...the way Sundays were always meant to be but never knew how. The sun was shining. Speaker's Corner was jamming. The birds were everywhere. As well as the joggers and the dogs, and the people. And despite the cool temperature, people meandered. Art was showcased along the busy streets, vendors waiting to grab people going in or out of the park. Some of it was actually beautiful. Being thoroughly familiar with Hyde park, there's an area that doesn't garner much attention due to the season - The Rose Garden. This is a place that makes you feel like you're standing inside the walls of "The Secret Garden" - I imagine that the brilliance of it in the spring and summer months, is overwhelming. In the rose garden, the traditional English style prevails and there are a multitude of little pathways and circular hideaways that showcase a fountain in each center point. There are archways to walk under that are constructed of the braided vines of trees, and an arched tunnel that, in the summer, will shower down vines of roses to the guests of the garden below. It's a place filled with magic. And today - I found some in action. I was one of the few, walking these paths, and I happened across a solitary rose bush, already in bloom. It stood undisturbed in all its glory - in the middle of January, in the middle of the naked gardens, pink roses blossomed off of the prickly vines, as if in defiance, in rebellion - of the weather. Lovely.
I spent the lunch hour at The Serpentine Bar and Grill, which overlooks the river. I ate my lunch of pesto panini and spicy tomato soup, outside on the patio - in solidarity of defiance, with the rose bush. I then made my way to the Dorchester Hotel - on Park Lane. It is the crown jewel of hotels in London - its prestigious address overlooks Hyde Park, and it's guests include the famous of the silver screen. Only the best of the best stay here. I thought I'd get a glimpse. It's everything luxurious and lovely inside. Incredibly huge (6 foot) urns hold fresh flower art pieces that stand 5 feet into the air - today's theme was yellow, with roses and lilies galore. I enjoyed tea in their central tea room and watched for a glimpse of a celebrity. It was very cozy.
This evening held another new experience - I attended Evensong at St. James's Church in Sussex Gardens (two blocks from my flat). The church is old, built in the 1800's, by a well-known architect buried in Westminster Abbey. This is the church where Oscar Wilde was married 126 years ago. The stained-glass was lovely, the cathedral ceilings tall, and the stone floors worn and smooth. There were perhaps 15 people present for the evening service and a five-person choir sang the entire program. It was amazingly simple and beautiful, with two readings (from the bible) and another reading from a religious book about the lives of the apostles. The music was unbelievable - they sang 'a cappella" except when the pipe organ partook, and the acoustics were fantastic. It was like a personal concert. Although strictly traditional to the Church of England - "God Save the Queen" - it was delightful to be a part of the community for this evening.
Now dinnertime - another ethnic cuisine diversion. Tonight's exploration is Moroccan Tagine over rice. The ingredients profess chickpeas, aubergine, apricot, aromatic spices, tomatoes, and butternut squash. Hmmm... I'll make sure to save some chocolate for dessert, just in case. And, regardless - chocolate seems like a good end to a nice day.
Thursday, January 21, 2010
The Rich and Famous & The Birds
Wednesday was a fun day with new adventures...
I got dressed up the way a true London girl should be - highly fashionable of course (complete with stylish yet comfortable heels), and I meandered through the ritzy lane of Bond Street. This is a must-see avenue. It's the Rodeo Drive of London. The streets are lined with flags of every excessively expensive store and boutique in the world. One can take her pick of any luxury stop along the way - Hermes, Burberry, Louis Vuitton, Ralph Lauren, Tiffany's, Gucci, Armani, Vivienne Westwood, Jimmy Choo, Michael Kors, Chopard, Cartier, Asprey, Prada, and even Sotheby's. They have assembled the best of the best on a narrow and crooked side street in the middle of London. Aside from the glittery windows of jewels and the mannequins wearing $20,000 wool coats, there is a lot more to be seen. People-watching is at its finest here, because camera-toting tourists mingle with high society. It was splendidly entertaining to watch women, young and old, strutting along the cobblestone in sky-high stilettos, carrying Louis Vuitton purses, and clutching bags from Prada and Michael Kors. Money can only be spent here in tremendous quantity and it happens every minute of each day. It was something to see. I am also quite positive that I shared the too-narrow sidewalk with a handful of very important and very wealthy, possible celebrities - although I didn't actually notice who they might be.
My new friend Julian happens to work amidst this posh haven at a very prestigious bank. And we enjoyed lunch at an Irish pub, Mulligan's, while we chatted about the lives of the rich and famous. Turns out that an Irish Pub might not be the place to eat if you're a vegetarian - just a warning. He, unfortunately had to spend his afternoon pushing around paperwork but I took advantage of the rain sprinkles to pop into shops and browse the goods.
Today - Thursday - was a beautiful day. Although colder than necessary for London climate, the sun was shining. Unbelievably, the swan population of the Serpentine has exploded in a day's time. Today's walk found more than 12 white swans gliding through the waters and in the fountain pools of the park. They are incredibly graceful and beautiful creatures. And yet somehow extremely terrifying animals when a child with a piece of bread gets too close. The scene brought back a memory from my childhood of feeding the geese at Menomonie Park - when I had been happily feeding only a handful of geese until suddenly the entire park's population of geese heard the silent thud of bread dropping on grass and came rushing to my spot. There is something horribly frightening about too many birds, of any size, coming for you...
And as I walked past the bread-crazed swan and the crying girl, I chuckled with my own memory, thankful it wasn't me. That is, until I became involved in my own Hitchcock-esq horror show. Unbeknownst to me, a generous women with ill-timing, was opening a bag of stale bread at exactly the moment that I was walking through a cluster of calm birds, ducks, geese, and gulls. It all happened in slow motion. I heard the bag crinkling behind me and saw one gull dart into the air, far too close to my head, and then it unleashed...they all took flight to get to their feast and I happened to be standing in the middle of the pack. Birds of too many sizes were flying at my head, wings beating too close to my ears, squawking and shrieking melodies coming from all directions, the dizzying sight of at least 50+ birds swarming...completely dreadful. My heart was beating an unsteady rhythm and I was ducking and running and shrieking my own unhappy song. After I found my way out of the bird attack, I stood still and let my breathing return to normal - and noticed that I had become a celebrity. Indeed, it was like the paparazzi - at least 20 tourists stood snapping photos and filming my near-brush with death-by-bird. I am not currently training for a marathon, but if I was, my sprint down the path and out of sight would have been clocked my best time yet.
Thankfully, this evening has produced less excitement and a wonderful Mediterranean dinner prepared in my little kitchenette, of a pita filled with falafel, hummus, grilled peppers, artichokes, and sundried tomatoes...delicious. And even better was the pre-dinner caramel latte and almond-chocolate croissant I had on my way home from the park. There's nothing better than a stop at Caffe Nero to help you forget The Birds.
I got dressed up the way a true London girl should be - highly fashionable of course (complete with stylish yet comfortable heels), and I meandered through the ritzy lane of Bond Street. This is a must-see avenue. It's the Rodeo Drive of London. The streets are lined with flags of every excessively expensive store and boutique in the world. One can take her pick of any luxury stop along the way - Hermes, Burberry, Louis Vuitton, Ralph Lauren, Tiffany's, Gucci, Armani, Vivienne Westwood, Jimmy Choo, Michael Kors, Chopard, Cartier, Asprey, Prada, and even Sotheby's. They have assembled the best of the best on a narrow and crooked side street in the middle of London. Aside from the glittery windows of jewels and the mannequins wearing $20,000 wool coats, there is a lot more to be seen. People-watching is at its finest here, because camera-toting tourists mingle with high society. It was splendidly entertaining to watch women, young and old, strutting along the cobblestone in sky-high stilettos, carrying Louis Vuitton purses, and clutching bags from Prada and Michael Kors. Money can only be spent here in tremendous quantity and it happens every minute of each day. It was something to see. I am also quite positive that I shared the too-narrow sidewalk with a handful of very important and very wealthy, possible celebrities - although I didn't actually notice who they might be.
My new friend Julian happens to work amidst this posh haven at a very prestigious bank. And we enjoyed lunch at an Irish pub, Mulligan's, while we chatted about the lives of the rich and famous. Turns out that an Irish Pub might not be the place to eat if you're a vegetarian - just a warning. He, unfortunately had to spend his afternoon pushing around paperwork but I took advantage of the rain sprinkles to pop into shops and browse the goods.
Today - Thursday - was a beautiful day. Although colder than necessary for London climate, the sun was shining. Unbelievably, the swan population of the Serpentine has exploded in a day's time. Today's walk found more than 12 white swans gliding through the waters and in the fountain pools of the park. They are incredibly graceful and beautiful creatures. And yet somehow extremely terrifying animals when a child with a piece of bread gets too close. The scene brought back a memory from my childhood of feeding the geese at Menomonie Park - when I had been happily feeding only a handful of geese until suddenly the entire park's population of geese heard the silent thud of bread dropping on grass and came rushing to my spot. There is something horribly frightening about too many birds, of any size, coming for you...
And as I walked past the bread-crazed swan and the crying girl, I chuckled with my own memory, thankful it wasn't me. That is, until I became involved in my own Hitchcock-esq horror show. Unbeknownst to me, a generous women with ill-timing, was opening a bag of stale bread at exactly the moment that I was walking through a cluster of calm birds, ducks, geese, and gulls. It all happened in slow motion. I heard the bag crinkling behind me and saw one gull dart into the air, far too close to my head, and then it unleashed...they all took flight to get to their feast and I happened to be standing in the middle of the pack. Birds of too many sizes were flying at my head, wings beating too close to my ears, squawking and shrieking melodies coming from all directions, the dizzying sight of at least 50+ birds swarming...completely dreadful. My heart was beating an unsteady rhythm and I was ducking and running and shrieking my own unhappy song. After I found my way out of the bird attack, I stood still and let my breathing return to normal - and noticed that I had become a celebrity. Indeed, it was like the paparazzi - at least 20 tourists stood snapping photos and filming my near-brush with death-by-bird. I am not currently training for a marathon, but if I was, my sprint down the path and out of sight would have been clocked my best time yet.
Thankfully, this evening has produced less excitement and a wonderful Mediterranean dinner prepared in my little kitchenette, of a pita filled with falafel, hummus, grilled peppers, artichokes, and sundried tomatoes...delicious. And even better was the pre-dinner caramel latte and almond-chocolate croissant I had on my way home from the park. There's nothing better than a stop at Caffe Nero to help you forget The Birds.
Tuesday, January 19, 2010
Blissful Nature
Walking through and around Kensington Gardens has become more than a daily ritual wrought with indifference or mundane triviality - it is truly a compulsive necessity. I find that my breathing becomes easier and deeper as my body passes through the black iron gates of the park, and my mind clears of its clamoring and incessant chatter, to reveal a sense of calm and peacefulness not often acquired in such a large city. The fountains have been turned on in the park - and this has made all the difference. Water shoots up like a geyser from six different points on each of five fountains in the formal garden area - the sound of water both rushing and gently falling, like two contrasting melodies. At one end of the garden, The Serpentine begins and the glassine surface mirrors the hazy grey sky while the branches of sentient willow trees gracefully dip into the pool. In this paradise, swans glide, ducks bob, and a multitude of birds take flight in various games of fancy. It is lovely.
I often become side-tracked in my adventures of the day because I visit this magical place first, and like many days, today - I ended up sitting a long while and writing. I watch a lot of life go by as well and am often struck by the variety I am entertained with. Today I also spent some time with Ms. Austen - as my "mini-me" is currently taken in by Pride and Prejudice, I thought another dance with it might be very well-advised.
I also happened to stop in at one of my old local haunts - JD Wetherspoons - a bar/restaurant on the corner of Edgware Road and Oxford Street. It's fantastically entertaining to trace steps that have come long before and to contemplate how different and similar life is. And because it is London, I was acquainted this evening with a friendly stranger. He mistook me for being Italian - and I'm still attempting to understand the compliment or the affront in his remark - but in any case, it was an enjoyable almost hour where I learned about Cyprus, and worldly news events. I am quite sure he was disgraced to find me so ignorant of the current world events, but at least I was able to remark intelligently on the horrors of Haiti. I think it's absolutely hysterical to meet a stranger on the street and to sit over tea for a chat - and it is ridiculous that we should be so used to isolation and independence, that I would find it hysterical! I rather like the idea of people meeting people. I'm lucky that London is just the place where this societal faux pas happens.
I often become side-tracked in my adventures of the day because I visit this magical place first, and like many days, today - I ended up sitting a long while and writing. I watch a lot of life go by as well and am often struck by the variety I am entertained with. Today I also spent some time with Ms. Austen - as my "mini-me" is currently taken in by Pride and Prejudice, I thought another dance with it might be very well-advised.
I also happened to stop in at one of my old local haunts - JD Wetherspoons - a bar/restaurant on the corner of Edgware Road and Oxford Street. It's fantastically entertaining to trace steps that have come long before and to contemplate how different and similar life is. And because it is London, I was acquainted this evening with a friendly stranger. He mistook me for being Italian - and I'm still attempting to understand the compliment or the affront in his remark - but in any case, it was an enjoyable almost hour where I learned about Cyprus, and worldly news events. I am quite sure he was disgraced to find me so ignorant of the current world events, but at least I was able to remark intelligently on the horrors of Haiti. I think it's absolutely hysterical to meet a stranger on the street and to sit over tea for a chat - and it is ridiculous that we should be so used to isolation and independence, that I would find it hysterical! I rather like the idea of people meeting people. I'm lucky that London is just the place where this societal faux pas happens.
Sunday, January 17, 2010
My Own Breaking Dawn...
Yesterday (Saturday) held quite the adventure. The day was relaxing in all the ways a Saturday is meant to be - a nice walk, grocery shopping, catching up with friends and family... and then the evening came about with a bang. I received an impromptu invitation to accompany a small group of Londoners for an evening of fun. As it was nearly 9pm, there were a few moments of indecision, being yet unaccustomed to the London nightlife. But I quickly agreed to the offer and I was off to Piccadilly Circus/Leicester Square, where I met four new friends. Julian, (a friend of a friend-type person who had been lovely enough to email with me these last couple weeks regarding flat searches) introduced me to his girlfriend and two friends. We headed to the Trocadero Centre, which is London's tackiest funland, and London's largest entertainment venue - complete with arcade games, a bowling alley, bars, pool tables, and the like. We enjoyed pints of Strongbow and the football game on television while we chatted and waited for our turn at the lanes. Everyone was incredibly interesting and sincerely friendly - we made up a fascinating group - one prestigious banker, one HR exec in an American law firm, one actor, one disillusioned philosopher in film production, and one doctorate of psychology/writer/adventurer. It was truly enlightening conversation. I gave a ridiculously hideous bowling performance and still managed not to be the loser, which was kind of exciting. We all fell easily into company and had a delightful time.
The games ended at 2am but the London night was still young. We made our way to The Palm Casino in Mayfair, mingled with the extremely wealthy, watched a man win 75,000 quid at the Roulette table, watched Julian lose 100 quid, worked the slot machine and won 45 myself. We continued the fun back to Balham (30 minutes south) where my new friends live, and I was taught the essentials of Poker Dice. My winning streak held out and I beat everyone at the table to end the gambling streak on a high note. It goes without saying that the evening had been full of laughter, new places, new experiences, and a couple pints of Strongbow. As kind as they were, and as nice as the offer to crash on their couch sounded, I could hear my own bed calling my name. So, the taxi drove me through the dark and almost silent streets of London, through the breaking dawn, to offer me up at the curb at 6 am - an exhausted, but thrilled pioneer into the true London night-life.
The games ended at 2am but the London night was still young. We made our way to The Palm Casino in Mayfair, mingled with the extremely wealthy, watched a man win 75,000 quid at the Roulette table, watched Julian lose 100 quid, worked the slot machine and won 45 myself. We continued the fun back to Balham (30 minutes south) where my new friends live, and I was taught the essentials of Poker Dice. My winning streak held out and I beat everyone at the table to end the gambling streak on a high note. It goes without saying that the evening had been full of laughter, new places, new experiences, and a couple pints of Strongbow. As kind as they were, and as nice as the offer to crash on their couch sounded, I could hear my own bed calling my name. So, the taxi drove me through the dark and almost silent streets of London, through the breaking dawn, to offer me up at the curb at 6 am - an exhausted, but thrilled pioneer into the true London night-life.
Friday, January 15, 2010
The Classics
Seems I've been a bit neglectful of keeping my adventures recorded, so hopefully this will make up for the last couple of days. Truth be told, there hasn't been anything extraordinary that's occurred, rather, it's been quite a bit relaxing. Since I moved into my studio flat on Tuesday, I've spent the majority of my time getting settled and exploring the neighborhood. I've found the best markets to shop at, the loveliest cafes, and the most traditional pubs. Yesterday, I walked a few short blocks to Paddington Station...now that is quite a place. It is filled with adventure - trains coming and going, the underground tube coming and going, people everywhere arriving and departing. Paddington Station is a place to visit and to mill around - there are plenty of cafes and restaurants, and every other convenience shop; but it's more than a place to sit. It's a place to watch. And the architecture is breathtaking - the high domed ceilings, the way that life keeps swirling about at a fast pace, the train whistles, the "all-aboard's", definitely a place to sit amidst the traveling.
As I am less than a five minute walk to Hyde Park and enter in by Kensington Gardens, this has become my daily sanctuary. I walk the path around The Serpentine, alongside the man-made river, through the geese/duck habitat, underneath stone arch bridges, passed two cafes with expectant outdoor patios, alongside Princess Diana's memorial fountain, and back to the stone garden walls, sculptures, and fountains that are iced down. Kensington Palace is in the distance and today the mist was rolling in. As I walked, I found two swans floating alongside the bank, hiding under foliage in their own personal pool. They were beautiful, and it felt like I was the only one who noticed them. On the opposite side of my path, the field stretched on, dotted with trees, wild grasses and wheat standing tall. I could have been standing in a Jane Austen novel. It hasn't failed yet - there is something magical about England that makes one feel directly connected to the Classics. While you're walking, you can almost imagine being transported back to the 1800's - there's something fantastic about knowing that it was all here then - the Palace, the grounds, the fields, the wildlife...somethings haven't changed.
"I Capture the Castle" is one of my all time favorite books (by Dodie Smith), and as I couldn't stand to leave it behind, it followed me here to London. Finished it last night (rather, this morning!) and it was yet another classic tribute to early London (only the 1930's), filled with mention of places I know well - Hyde Park, Park Lane, Leicester Square, Regent Street, and King's Crypt (Cross) station. It's a lovely idea to be in London in the 21st century but to feel like you're living it in the 19th or 20th - through a book.
As I am less than a five minute walk to Hyde Park and enter in by Kensington Gardens, this has become my daily sanctuary. I walk the path around The Serpentine, alongside the man-made river, through the geese/duck habitat, underneath stone arch bridges, passed two cafes with expectant outdoor patios, alongside Princess Diana's memorial fountain, and back to the stone garden walls, sculptures, and fountains that are iced down. Kensington Palace is in the distance and today the mist was rolling in. As I walked, I found two swans floating alongside the bank, hiding under foliage in their own personal pool. They were beautiful, and it felt like I was the only one who noticed them. On the opposite side of my path, the field stretched on, dotted with trees, wild grasses and wheat standing tall. I could have been standing in a Jane Austen novel. It hasn't failed yet - there is something magical about England that makes one feel directly connected to the Classics. While you're walking, you can almost imagine being transported back to the 1800's - there's something fantastic about knowing that it was all here then - the Palace, the grounds, the fields, the wildlife...somethings haven't changed.
"I Capture the Castle" is one of my all time favorite books (by Dodie Smith), and as I couldn't stand to leave it behind, it followed me here to London. Finished it last night (rather, this morning!) and it was yet another classic tribute to early London (only the 1930's), filled with mention of places I know well - Hyde Park, Park Lane, Leicester Square, Regent Street, and King's Crypt (Cross) station. It's a lovely idea to be in London in the 21st century but to feel like you're living it in the 19th or 20th - through a book.
Tuesday, January 12, 2010
Feeling Settled
As I write, I'm sitting at my raised bar-table in my flat. Said goodbye to my hotel room today and it felt good. I've easily managed to squeeze my four suitcases of belongings into the space, and it feels like mine. Everything is as it should be - although I'm slightly perplexed by the television. There are too many channels and apparently 60 plus of them are Arabic - I suppose I didn't come to London to watch TV.
So today has come and gone in the blink of an eye - that's what happens when you get caught up in the details; like getting lost around Victoria station for a hour, trying to find a street address to see a flat, hunting down outlet adapters, getting groceries, transporting way too much luggage only three blocks away, and unpacking into a more permanent space. Before you know it - the night has closed in and thoughts begin to drift towards plans of the next day. I can see how easy it is to get caught in the details and to forget to step back to to see the big picture. I don't want to forget the big picture - I'm in London, I have a place to stay, I have an unbelievable group of family and friends whose constant onslaught of positive power shields and lifts me...and life is so very good.
There is one print adorning the white walls of my small space, likely hung before my arrival. It's a photograph - stretched over a canvas - of trees in a forest...some of the trees are bare, some have leaves, as if the season is in transition. The ground is covered with branches and dried leaves, yet the path is visible. And although the trees stand close, the forest full - the sun is shining in through and around them, hitting like rays of light onto the uneven ground, its light fierce, its power unquestionable. I've been looking at this print all night. It feels like one of those signs from the Universe. It feels like a metaphor for my life. I rather like it...
So today has come and gone in the blink of an eye - that's what happens when you get caught up in the details; like getting lost around Victoria station for a hour, trying to find a street address to see a flat, hunting down outlet adapters, getting groceries, transporting way too much luggage only three blocks away, and unpacking into a more permanent space. Before you know it - the night has closed in and thoughts begin to drift towards plans of the next day. I can see how easy it is to get caught in the details and to forget to step back to to see the big picture. I don't want to forget the big picture - I'm in London, I have a place to stay, I have an unbelievable group of family and friends whose constant onslaught of positive power shields and lifts me...and life is so very good.
There is one print adorning the white walls of my small space, likely hung before my arrival. It's a photograph - stretched over a canvas - of trees in a forest...some of the trees are bare, some have leaves, as if the season is in transition. The ground is covered with branches and dried leaves, yet the path is visible. And although the trees stand close, the forest full - the sun is shining in through and around them, hitting like rays of light onto the uneven ground, its light fierce, its power unquestionable. I've been looking at this print all night. It feels like one of those signs from the Universe. It feels like a metaphor for my life. I rather like it...
Monday, January 11, 2010
Random Musings...
I've been here in the paradise of London for two weeks now and I've noticed a few things...
I'm called an "expat" - that seems to sum up my status here. Perhaps that's better than being a tourist - and since I've been asked for directions more times than I can count, I'd safely say people don't assume I'm foreign until I open my mouth. Also - no one knows where Wisconsin or Minnesota are, even saying the Midwest only awards me a vacant nod.
All you have to do to fit in is wear headphones/earbuds - then all sorts of people will stop you to ask you where the hell they are.
Dogs are everywhere and they're small, mostly terrier-type dogs with coats on, always unleashed in the parks, and unbelievably well behaved. I've never heard them bark. Even the rare big dogs are somehow snobbishly graceful in their prancing.
People are really friendly - although they look down too much and are often walking too fast. Men dress really well here (and not just for the office)- pinstripe suits abound, they wear scarfs, button up their wool coats, and are manly enough to wear gloves. The fitted trouser leg is currently in style, as are nice, Italian-leather looking shoes. Women wear anything they want, knee-high boots are popular, as are parisian inspired hats, and the current look is often leggings with some kind of oversized sweater/shirt, or a skirt. Blue-jeans don't quite make the cut here (unless they are quite trendy), and neither do trainers (those would be tennis shoes/Nike's).
Men can also often be seen carrying a woman's bag/purse for her as they hurry down the street. At first I thought it a perfectly good solution for the woman who was drinking hot coffee and walking a brisk pace - but no, it happens even when hands are free and strolling occurs. I like the idea. It's a good idea.
Selfridges has the market on department stores - it's Macy's and Nordstrom's combined and then made better.
British television is obsessed with "Friends" and you can find it anytime you turn the television on.
The ground floor of a building is actually called the "ground floor" and after you've gone up a flight of stairs, you are now at the "First Floor". This is different than in the U.S., and can be confusing when you're meeting someone and they say the third floor and there isn't a lift (yeah, that's the elevator) and then there's no markings. You could be waiting on what you're thinking is the third floor, while they're impatiently on the fourth floor, although they'll tell you it's really the third. (Of course they will smile knowingly and sympathetically when you explain you're from the US).
FOOD is a constant source of interest- Ketchup is not the same, it's sweet, and totally disconcerting as the bottle is the same Heinz...but then again most of the food here is not as expected. A common lunch is a jacket potato filled with baked beans and topped with white shredded cheese, or an omelet with chips (those are french fries), or a baguette with pole tuna and cucumbers...Thankfully there are dozens of small cafe chains that have attempted to claim the corner on healthy eating, such as Pret A Manger, (or PRET for short), or EAT - the cafe of healthy turbo-charged salads. Of course you could stop at a Subway or a Pizza Hut - which actually has wine glasses and linen napkins on the tables. Or you can always stop in any cafe to get Afternoon Tea - know that it will always be English Breakfast, unless you ask differently, and you'll always get milk with it, because no one can quite believe you'd take it without milk and sugar. On the upside, anytime you order tea, you'll always get some kind of cookie with it. Or you could go out for a "pint" - people don't say "let's go get a beer", it's "let's meet for a pint." And don't say "bun - as in hamburger bun, it's called a "bap" - I'd like a tomato and mozzarella bap please." Oh, and they don't believe in ice - drinks are served without it, hotels don't have machines for it - and I get strange looks when I request it.
I'm called an "expat" - that seems to sum up my status here. Perhaps that's better than being a tourist - and since I've been asked for directions more times than I can count, I'd safely say people don't assume I'm foreign until I open my mouth. Also - no one knows where Wisconsin or Minnesota are, even saying the Midwest only awards me a vacant nod.
All you have to do to fit in is wear headphones/earbuds - then all sorts of people will stop you to ask you where the hell they are.
Dogs are everywhere and they're small, mostly terrier-type dogs with coats on, always unleashed in the parks, and unbelievably well behaved. I've never heard them bark. Even the rare big dogs are somehow snobbishly graceful in their prancing.
People are really friendly - although they look down too much and are often walking too fast. Men dress really well here (and not just for the office)- pinstripe suits abound, they wear scarfs, button up their wool coats, and are manly enough to wear gloves. The fitted trouser leg is currently in style, as are nice, Italian-leather looking shoes. Women wear anything they want, knee-high boots are popular, as are parisian inspired hats, and the current look is often leggings with some kind of oversized sweater/shirt, or a skirt. Blue-jeans don't quite make the cut here (unless they are quite trendy), and neither do trainers (those would be tennis shoes/Nike's).
Men can also often be seen carrying a woman's bag/purse for her as they hurry down the street. At first I thought it a perfectly good solution for the woman who was drinking hot coffee and walking a brisk pace - but no, it happens even when hands are free and strolling occurs. I like the idea. It's a good idea.
Selfridges has the market on department stores - it's Macy's and Nordstrom's combined and then made better.
British television is obsessed with "Friends" and you can find it anytime you turn the television on.
The ground floor of a building is actually called the "ground floor" and after you've gone up a flight of stairs, you are now at the "First Floor". This is different than in the U.S., and can be confusing when you're meeting someone and they say the third floor and there isn't a lift (yeah, that's the elevator) and then there's no markings. You could be waiting on what you're thinking is the third floor, while they're impatiently on the fourth floor, although they'll tell you it's really the third. (Of course they will smile knowingly and sympathetically when you explain you're from the US).
FOOD is a constant source of interest- Ketchup is not the same, it's sweet, and totally disconcerting as the bottle is the same Heinz...but then again most of the food here is not as expected. A common lunch is a jacket potato filled with baked beans and topped with white shredded cheese, or an omelet with chips (those are french fries), or a baguette with pole tuna and cucumbers...Thankfully there are dozens of small cafe chains that have attempted to claim the corner on healthy eating, such as Pret A Manger, (or PRET for short), or EAT - the cafe of healthy turbo-charged salads. Of course you could stop at a Subway or a Pizza Hut - which actually has wine glasses and linen napkins on the tables. Or you can always stop in any cafe to get Afternoon Tea - know that it will always be English Breakfast, unless you ask differently, and you'll always get milk with it, because no one can quite believe you'd take it without milk and sugar. On the upside, anytime you order tea, you'll always get some kind of cookie with it. Or you could go out for a "pint" - people don't say "let's go get a beer", it's "let's meet for a pint." And don't say "bun - as in hamburger bun, it's called a "bap" - I'd like a tomato and mozzarella bap please." Oh, and they don't believe in ice - drinks are served without it, hotels don't have machines for it - and I get strange looks when I request it.
Victory
So today was the day. I found a place where I can finally unpack my suitcases and I have the keys in hand. It's quaint - which sounds much more sophisticated than the reality of small, which it is. It's a studio flat, although it has all that's needed for now - a kitchenette, a bathroom, a bed, a table, and even a few windows. It's mine for the next four weeks, and longer if I choose.
I imagine tomorrow will bring a new kind of feeling to actually be settled and to have an address. I'm looking forward to it.
My place is in a square with a small patch of grass outside, flanked by other Victorian inspired row houses on one side, and the University of London housing block on the other. It's just off Sussex Gardens, a few blocks from Hyde Park, and close to Paddington Station. Right around the corner, shops, cafes, and pubs line the street - and the Sussex Arms (the local pub) looks like the perfectly traditional place for a pint, complete with entire mahogany interior. I'm quite close to where I lived last time, but in a new area which seems busy and safe, yet quiet and off the main beaten path. A bit farther from the "London nightlife" of the West End or Picadilly Circus, than I had first imagined - but easily accessible from the close tube or my legs.
In any case, this evening ends with feelings of gratitude and excitement for tomorrow - unpacking and doing laundry!
Pictures of the outside of my new flat...I'm on the first floor, which means that I only have one flight of stairs to carry my luggage up...
I imagine tomorrow will bring a new kind of feeling to actually be settled and to have an address. I'm looking forward to it.
My place is in a square with a small patch of grass outside, flanked by other Victorian inspired row houses on one side, and the University of London housing block on the other. It's just off Sussex Gardens, a few blocks from Hyde Park, and close to Paddington Station. Right around the corner, shops, cafes, and pubs line the street - and the Sussex Arms (the local pub) looks like the perfectly traditional place for a pint, complete with entire mahogany interior. I'm quite close to where I lived last time, but in a new area which seems busy and safe, yet quiet and off the main beaten path. A bit farther from the "London nightlife" of the West End or Picadilly Circus, than I had first imagined - but easily accessible from the close tube or my legs.
In any case, this evening ends with feelings of gratitude and excitement for tomorrow - unpacking and doing laundry!
Pictures of the outside of my new flat...I'm on the first floor, which means that I only have one flight of stairs to carry my luggage up...
Photos from the last few days...
Views of Trafalgar Square from the steps of the National Gallery...
Covent Garden - the Markets - a Street Performer
ParkWest Place - the place I'd lived on my first journey to London in 2001 - I was on the top floor, seven of us girls shared a penthouse flat, I can still picture my room...
Covent Garden - the Markets - a Street Performer
ParkWest Place - the place I'd lived on my first journey to London in 2001 - I was on the top floor, seven of us girls shared a penthouse flat, I can still picture my room...
The National Gallery, Covent Garden, and all around Town...
I realized that I haven't been keeping up my adventurer log...so my last few days...
Friday - 1/8/10
Today was still an icy mess in London, but the sun was shining. I spent my afternoon walking as usual - this time to meet an agent to look at a flat. Took only a few seconds to realize that it wasn't for me...there was something toxic in the air, something about the shredded carpet on the stairs, something disturbing about the cobwebs everywhere. So the search continues.
The rest of the afternoon lent itself to something extraordinary - uninterrupted hours walking through the National Gallery. One of my favorite museums in London. I spent my time mingling with the artists of the 18th-20th century. My favorites - Pisarro, Van Gogh, Cezanne, Goya, Seurat, Monet, and Degas. I absolutely loved Monet's "Bathers at La Grenouillere" - I'd never seen it before. To be standing in front of these pieces was unbelievable - Van Gogh's framed and famed 'Sunflowers' was surreal...seeing it in books, seeing it on someone's wall as a print - well it's not the same as seeing it in person. Seeing the brush strokes, the actual paint, the canvas, and the presence of his spirit. It's like you can picture them in front of the canvas, so it's definitely more than walking by a painting on the wall...so much more than that.
It was my lucky day - there was a free concert that evening at the National Gallery. The Pentagon Brass, musicians from the Royal College of Music. There were two trumpets, a trombone, tuba, and a horn. They played Mouret, Ewald, Bach, and Previn to name a few composers. (J.A. - thought about you - you would have loved it) It was so beautiful and the perfect close to the day...the music swelled inside the arched and gothic space, the ancient paintings on the wall having been forgotten at least for a moment while people crowded around, eager to be a part of something so unexpected and so unexpectedly wonderful.
I ended my evening with a stop by the Hilton by Green Park, where I had been an unexpected guest the week before. I stopped to get a fill of human contact, as the bartender was friendly and the guests always chatty. Met a lovely British couple who actually live in Arizona, are on their way to Dublin, and will soon be moving to France - they were fun, the wine was good, and the walk back to my place was quick and full of gratitude.
Saturday - 1/9/10
Today was overcast with the unspoken threat of "weather" from the sky. My adventure for today brought me to Covent Garden. Another favorite place. The Apple and Jubilee Markets are well known and well attended - people selling their wares and others buying. Walking though the arched open-air space, I could imagine this place hundreds of years before - the same events, the same purpose - yet a different lifetime. Covent Garden holds all the magic of old-world London interspersed with modern shops and cafes. The cobblestone streets are uneven and perfectly worn, too-tiny streets curving haphazardly until they reach the open square. Old churches in ancient decompose continue to stand gracefully and defiant. People converge on the square and on the markets in an endless stream of enthusiasm. Street performers around every corner claim their spot and your attention - hoping to lure you from the market for a few moments, to entertain you, to encourage you - to part with a few quid. This place is perfectly London - small book stores squeezed in between alleyways, pubs with mahogany tables, and every kind of shop in between.
I walked through the markets, completely and exactly as I had remembered them - wonderful handmade crafts and jewelry, perfectly captured pictures of London - and then as the snow started to fall and the wind whipped around, I became mesmerized by one of the performers in the cobblestone square, flanked by white marble pillars. He was standing in the snow, his guitar hooked up to a professional looking gig, the electrical sound of it impressive - and he was good. So many people stopped. Street performers are not uncommon and neither are the crowds that gather - but it was dusk and cold and snowing - and yet the crowd stayed. His rendition of Jeff Buckley's "Hallelujah" was original and yet similar, and completely moving. Eventually people were forced to resume their paths, to keep moving - but it was like everyone left with the music still lingering.
Sunday - 1/10/10
Today was a day spent devoted to flat searches - with hopeful leads. It was also an afternoon of exploring the nearby neighborhood. I am uncannily close to where I lived on my last visit, and yet - the surrounding area is so unfamiliar. I imagine that I didn't have much patience for my 'hood last time, only intent on the sights. But today, I wound my way around the streets, new neighborhoods, new people. There are so many unobtrusive reminders of home and the familiar which fit right next to the new and unexpected. Like the Aveda Salon next to the fresh market fruit stand, the Victorian row house next to the pub - there are no empty spaces, there are simply no spaces at all. Found a really delicious Thai restaurant called Banana Tree Canteen and I fulfilled my craving for asian cuisine. After being absorbed by the people walking the streets outside the cafe, I turned to my Kindle. Probably one of my most favorite possessions - thank you. My unfailing companion when the people-watching becomes a blur or the waiter has had enough of my stories and pleasantries.
It was a peaceful end to the weekend. Confident that this new week will find a more permanent place to stay so suitcases may be unpacked and contented sighs breathed.
Friday - 1/8/10
Today was still an icy mess in London, but the sun was shining. I spent my afternoon walking as usual - this time to meet an agent to look at a flat. Took only a few seconds to realize that it wasn't for me...there was something toxic in the air, something about the shredded carpet on the stairs, something disturbing about the cobwebs everywhere. So the search continues.
The rest of the afternoon lent itself to something extraordinary - uninterrupted hours walking through the National Gallery. One of my favorite museums in London. I spent my time mingling with the artists of the 18th-20th century. My favorites - Pisarro, Van Gogh, Cezanne, Goya, Seurat, Monet, and Degas. I absolutely loved Monet's "Bathers at La Grenouillere" - I'd never seen it before. To be standing in front of these pieces was unbelievable - Van Gogh's framed and famed 'Sunflowers' was surreal...seeing it in books, seeing it on someone's wall as a print - well it's not the same as seeing it in person. Seeing the brush strokes, the actual paint, the canvas, and the presence of his spirit. It's like you can picture them in front of the canvas, so it's definitely more than walking by a painting on the wall...so much more than that.
It was my lucky day - there was a free concert that evening at the National Gallery. The Pentagon Brass, musicians from the Royal College of Music. There were two trumpets, a trombone, tuba, and a horn. They played Mouret, Ewald, Bach, and Previn to name a few composers. (J.A. - thought about you - you would have loved it) It was so beautiful and the perfect close to the day...the music swelled inside the arched and gothic space, the ancient paintings on the wall having been forgotten at least for a moment while people crowded around, eager to be a part of something so unexpected and so unexpectedly wonderful.
I ended my evening with a stop by the Hilton by Green Park, where I had been an unexpected guest the week before. I stopped to get a fill of human contact, as the bartender was friendly and the guests always chatty. Met a lovely British couple who actually live in Arizona, are on their way to Dublin, and will soon be moving to France - they were fun, the wine was good, and the walk back to my place was quick and full of gratitude.
Saturday - 1/9/10
Today was overcast with the unspoken threat of "weather" from the sky. My adventure for today brought me to Covent Garden. Another favorite place. The Apple and Jubilee Markets are well known and well attended - people selling their wares and others buying. Walking though the arched open-air space, I could imagine this place hundreds of years before - the same events, the same purpose - yet a different lifetime. Covent Garden holds all the magic of old-world London interspersed with modern shops and cafes. The cobblestone streets are uneven and perfectly worn, too-tiny streets curving haphazardly until they reach the open square. Old churches in ancient decompose continue to stand gracefully and defiant. People converge on the square and on the markets in an endless stream of enthusiasm. Street performers around every corner claim their spot and your attention - hoping to lure you from the market for a few moments, to entertain you, to encourage you - to part with a few quid. This place is perfectly London - small book stores squeezed in between alleyways, pubs with mahogany tables, and every kind of shop in between.
I walked through the markets, completely and exactly as I had remembered them - wonderful handmade crafts and jewelry, perfectly captured pictures of London - and then as the snow started to fall and the wind whipped around, I became mesmerized by one of the performers in the cobblestone square, flanked by white marble pillars. He was standing in the snow, his guitar hooked up to a professional looking gig, the electrical sound of it impressive - and he was good. So many people stopped. Street performers are not uncommon and neither are the crowds that gather - but it was dusk and cold and snowing - and yet the crowd stayed. His rendition of Jeff Buckley's "Hallelujah" was original and yet similar, and completely moving. Eventually people were forced to resume their paths, to keep moving - but it was like everyone left with the music still lingering.
Sunday - 1/10/10
Today was a day spent devoted to flat searches - with hopeful leads. It was also an afternoon of exploring the nearby neighborhood. I am uncannily close to where I lived on my last visit, and yet - the surrounding area is so unfamiliar. I imagine that I didn't have much patience for my 'hood last time, only intent on the sights. But today, I wound my way around the streets, new neighborhoods, new people. There are so many unobtrusive reminders of home and the familiar which fit right next to the new and unexpected. Like the Aveda Salon next to the fresh market fruit stand, the Victorian row house next to the pub - there are no empty spaces, there are simply no spaces at all. Found a really delicious Thai restaurant called Banana Tree Canteen and I fulfilled my craving for asian cuisine. After being absorbed by the people walking the streets outside the cafe, I turned to my Kindle. Probably one of my most favorite possessions - thank you. My unfailing companion when the people-watching becomes a blur or the waiter has had enough of my stories and pleasantries.
It was a peaceful end to the weekend. Confident that this new week will find a more permanent place to stay so suitcases may be unpacked and contented sighs breathed.
Saturday, January 9, 2010
Thursday, January 7, 2010
City of Ice
London froze over last night and the morning held a city blanketed by a layer of white snow atop thick ice. It was something unreal to see Londoners mystified by the elements and yet stubborn enough to brave them. I believe shovels are rare here...many were hacking away at the ice with metal garden rakes. Most sidewalks were left unattended - it's likely a sheer impossibility to salt or sand all of the thousand streets of London. Although totally reasonable, it was still unfortunate to see so many people bottom-side up, especially the ones who were carrying bags of groceries. No pictures of that, as I did not want to add to their misery with mocking tribute.
And so I picked my way gingerly along the sidewalks, as only a true Midwesterner knows how, and spent too many hours out in the cold. I walked through Hyde Park to Kensington Palace - this is the Palace that Queen Victoria was born in (1819). She ruled from 1837 until 1901, beginning at the age of 18, and the next 50 years became known as the Victorian Era, due to her visionary reign. Hers was the longest reign of any British monarchy. Pretty cool stuff. Queen Victoria is the current Queen's great-great-grandmother. The royal hierarchy and family tree is unbelievably fascinating.
On my way back through the park, I saw Princess Diana's memorial fountain, which is quite architecturally interesting - a large ring with thousands of facets of granite, and the water flows in two directions downward, pooling at the bottom, and there are three footbridges so one can get into the center of the fountain. It's supposed to be metaphorical for her life.
I also came across a Duck Parade...as The Serpentine was completely frozen over, the many ducks and geese and birds that inhabit Hyde Park were displaced and quite vocal about it. They were ducks out of water, and they were everywhere.
This evening has been quiet - full of many cups of hot tea (as it's too cold here), a steaming bowl of spaghetti and pesto pizzetta, research on historical England, and some inspired writing....cheers.
And so I picked my way gingerly along the sidewalks, as only a true Midwesterner knows how, and spent too many hours out in the cold. I walked through Hyde Park to Kensington Palace - this is the Palace that Queen Victoria was born in (1819). She ruled from 1837 until 1901, beginning at the age of 18, and the next 50 years became known as the Victorian Era, due to her visionary reign. Hers was the longest reign of any British monarchy. Pretty cool stuff. Queen Victoria is the current Queen's great-great-grandmother. The royal hierarchy and family tree is unbelievably fascinating.
On my way back through the park, I saw Princess Diana's memorial fountain, which is quite architecturally interesting - a large ring with thousands of facets of granite, and the water flows in two directions downward, pooling at the bottom, and there are three footbridges so one can get into the center of the fountain. It's supposed to be metaphorical for her life.
I also came across a Duck Parade...as The Serpentine was completely frozen over, the many ducks and geese and birds that inhabit Hyde Park were displaced and quite vocal about it. They were ducks out of water, and they were everywhere.
This evening has been quiet - full of many cups of hot tea (as it's too cold here), a steaming bowl of spaghetti and pesto pizzetta, research on historical England, and some inspired writing....cheers.
Tuesday, January 5, 2010
The Cock & Lion
That's the name of the English Pub I ate in this evening...they really know how to "do" their pubs around here. And the Strongbow's so much better than out of a can in the US.
So today...it was a day of getting lost and getting found. The day began optimistically with a hint of blue sky beyond the cloudscape. I used the Tube for the first time since my arrival - and it was exactly as it had been...amazing transportation. I got lost around the Victoria station looking for a letting agency that did not exist (far too many people in this world who have nothing better to do than scam people), and then lost again looking for the police station to report the fraud from my arrival. It seems I have more hoops to jump through, but I will put that on a shelf for now. I walked to Westminster Abbey, Parliament and Big Ben...had fantastic photo opportunities to find that my camera battery was dead. I will try again. As the high point of my day up to this spot was my tomato soup for lunch, I spent some time in St. Margaret's Church (on the grounds of Westminster Abbey - built in the 11th century) trying to find my peace. It was beautiful inside; old and unapologetic, worn and yet refurbished, the holding grounds for many remains of greatness long forgotten. I think I walked out, somehow lighter. And I kept walking...forgoing my tube pass in my pocket...alongside St. James's Park all the way to Buckingham Palace, up through The Green Park, and to my hotel.
I moved to a new place, with more reasonable prices, and find myself in a fantastically appointed room - nothing like a dorm room. I'm on Sussex Gardens, just off of Edgeware Road - literally blocks from my home 8 years ago. As I walked down Edgeware Road this evening - it was too much. It was a stroll through memory lane. Everything was similar...it looked the same, it felt the same, it even smelled the same. It was unbelievable - the internet cafe where I'd spent half my life those years ago, the same McDonald's where we'd go to feel like home...all still there. Quite a lovely image.
And so the evening concluded with getting found. I found the place I'd like to live for the rest of my stay. Never thought I'd be sharing the space with a roommate, but the Universe works in mysterious ways. The space beyond wonderful, the roommate also from the US, and the location is perfect. The best part was - I could see myself in the space, happy and inspired. I will be sending positive thoughts that it works out the way it's meant to. And for now...there's a huge bed with a fluffy down comforter that has my name on it...goodnight.
So today...it was a day of getting lost and getting found. The day began optimistically with a hint of blue sky beyond the cloudscape. I used the Tube for the first time since my arrival - and it was exactly as it had been...amazing transportation. I got lost around the Victoria station looking for a letting agency that did not exist (far too many people in this world who have nothing better to do than scam people), and then lost again looking for the police station to report the fraud from my arrival. It seems I have more hoops to jump through, but I will put that on a shelf for now. I walked to Westminster Abbey, Parliament and Big Ben...had fantastic photo opportunities to find that my camera battery was dead. I will try again. As the high point of my day up to this spot was my tomato soup for lunch, I spent some time in St. Margaret's Church (on the grounds of Westminster Abbey - built in the 11th century) trying to find my peace. It was beautiful inside; old and unapologetic, worn and yet refurbished, the holding grounds for many remains of greatness long forgotten. I think I walked out, somehow lighter. And I kept walking...forgoing my tube pass in my pocket...alongside St. James's Park all the way to Buckingham Palace, up through The Green Park, and to my hotel.
I moved to a new place, with more reasonable prices, and find myself in a fantastically appointed room - nothing like a dorm room. I'm on Sussex Gardens, just off of Edgeware Road - literally blocks from my home 8 years ago. As I walked down Edgeware Road this evening - it was too much. It was a stroll through memory lane. Everything was similar...it looked the same, it felt the same, it even smelled the same. It was unbelievable - the internet cafe where I'd spent half my life those years ago, the same McDonald's where we'd go to feel like home...all still there. Quite a lovely image.
And so the evening concluded with getting found. I found the place I'd like to live for the rest of my stay. Never thought I'd be sharing the space with a roommate, but the Universe works in mysterious ways. The space beyond wonderful, the roommate also from the US, and the location is perfect. The best part was - I could see myself in the space, happy and inspired. I will be sending positive thoughts that it works out the way it's meant to. And for now...there's a huge bed with a fluffy down comforter that has my name on it...goodnight.
Sunday, January 3, 2010
Truth Corner
Well, I'm not exactly certain they always speak the truth...but the famed Speaker's Corner (in Hyde Park) was rockin' today. On my way through the park this afternoon, there were at least 6 different people up on small utility ladders, some with a megaphone, and each person had their own posse of listeners surrounding them. Of course, there was also the general public milling around, and a lot of curious tourists standing by with cameras clicking away. One gentleman was speaking on the general embarrassments of first meetings between the opposite sex; another was speaking on Islamic religious practices; and yet another was shouting about politics and feeling persecuted. It was unbelievable, even if it wasn't exactly enlightening.
As I am currently in the world's greatest "Melting Pot" - I've often heard London referred to as the biggest melting pot of cultures and ethnicities - and being the adventurer that I am, I tried a new cuisine...a falafal wrap. Quite tasty with roasted red peppers and sundried tomatoes in it.
So this evening closes on a very lovely day - sun shining and all. New prospects to explore tomorrow on flat rentals and perhaps a trip to the Embassy to offer the names of those who left me flat-less...it's up to the Universe now to decide their fate.
As I am currently in the world's greatest "Melting Pot" - I've often heard London referred to as the biggest melting pot of cultures and ethnicities - and being the adventurer that I am, I tried a new cuisine...a falafal wrap. Quite tasty with roasted red peppers and sundried tomatoes in it.
So this evening closes on a very lovely day - sun shining and all. New prospects to explore tomorrow on flat rentals and perhaps a trip to the Embassy to offer the names of those who left me flat-less...it's up to the Universe now to decide their fate.
Paddington's Adventure
Just a preview - as I am saving the final production for my lovely nieces and nephews - but I have acquired two of the 'original' Paddington Bears who are accompanying me on some of the more exciting London adventures. All of their sights and excitements to be put into a book complete with photos. Here is Henry and Eleanor Paddington visiting Marble Arch, and in front of the hotel we are staying at (until we hopefully today find the most perfect flat to live in)...
A Park's Delight
There is certainly no secret of my professed love of London's parks...and it may stem from the fact that they are all perfectly contained magical spots of beauty and free, unhurried space in the middle of chaos. There is something wonderful in the ability to be amidst honking horns, masses of people, and hugely threatening buildings one moment, and then the next moment, be on the other side of an ornate gate that only slightly blocks it all from view, turning your back to see trees and green space, and water and wildlife.
And although I can say without doubt that I love all of the parks - I hold a special place for Hyde Park. Here you can find the Winter Wonderland carnival still remaining, impromptu footballers holding a training on a patch of green space, the elegantly wealthy Park Lane residents strolling alongside the out-of-city dwellers, perfectly manicured mazes to walk, statues and even a gallery, Princess Diana's memorial, Speaker's Corner, small dogs (always small, terrier-like dogs) running free, radical Rastafarian-esq rollerbladers weaving in and out of cones and jamming to their tunes, police atop horses roaming the yard, and The Serpentine - which is a man-made river that has a boardwalk/path running alongside it. I cannot imagine a single person, who taken in by the magic of the park, could believe a city of millions, right on its border.
Some pictures of my stroll from yesterday...
And although I can say without doubt that I love all of the parks - I hold a special place for Hyde Park. Here you can find the Winter Wonderland carnival still remaining, impromptu footballers holding a training on a patch of green space, the elegantly wealthy Park Lane residents strolling alongside the out-of-city dwellers, perfectly manicured mazes to walk, statues and even a gallery, Princess Diana's memorial, Speaker's Corner, small dogs (always small, terrier-like dogs) running free, radical Rastafarian-esq rollerbladers weaving in and out of cones and jamming to their tunes, police atop horses roaming the yard, and The Serpentine - which is a man-made river that has a boardwalk/path running alongside it. I cannot imagine a single person, who taken in by the magic of the park, could believe a city of millions, right on its border.
Some pictures of my stroll from yesterday...
Saturday, January 2, 2010
A New Year in London
And so the first day of the new year served as a good omen for the new adventures to come. The sun came out over London and although the temperature was cold, the sights were brilliant and the people warm and friendly. Yesterday was definitely a day for good things, as I met a few new people, and was invited to an english football match in the near future. Brits appear to take their football - or soccer- quite seriously, as it's also been all over their news. Should be fun to watch. The search continues for a place to live and I am confident that today will bring good news from the inquiries I've sent. Although I've grown quite fond of the dorm-roomesque feel of my current hotel, I'd really love to unpack my things and feel settled. So - I will see what today brings and I'm off to get my fill of Hyde Park...
Below are some photos from my first few days... Trafalgar Square and the National Gallery, Buckingham Palace and views from St. James Park...
Below are some photos from my first few days... Trafalgar Square and the National Gallery, Buckingham Palace and views from St. James Park...
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