Spanish school ended on Friday and with the weekend staring us in the face, we decided to hop to another part of Lake Atitlan. Saturday we took a 10 minute boat to San Marcos (population 3,000). San Marcos is known as the prettiest of the lake-side villages with a lush tropical, botanical feel. It´s also known for its yoga retreats and general hippie atmosphere. Disembarking at the dock, which was partially underwater from all the rain, we were met by a young boy who took it upon himself to show us the way into town and to the hotel we were headed to. He spoke broken English, quite similar in excellence to our Spanish, and he was very sweet. He took us the backway through the village, walking on dirt paths, through forested areas and ferns the size of large children. We eventually arrived at Paco Real, and found a room. The boy left happily with a few Quetzales in his pocket and we collapsed on our beds.
Sunday we had a lovely lazy breakfast at Fe, owned by an Englishman with a penchant for chain smoking and leather loafers. The food is pricey by Guatemalan standards ($4.50 - 7.00 for an entree) but was fresh and delicious. Helen and I enjoyed the rainforest atmosphere, sitting outside with our tea, and then we took a boat back to San Pedro, hoping to find the ATM before our day trip to Santiago and the market. Unfortunately, the two ATM´s in San Pedro were empty, so we decided to take a leap of faith and head to Santiago anyway, hoping for the best. Running down the pier to catch the boat that was drifting out of the dock, it felt like a scene out of the movie. The locals on board were yelling at us to hurry and waving their hats and laughing...we made it, landing on a bag of avocados! We sat on the roof of the boat and watched village life go by on the hour ride.
Sanitago was beautiful! The market held every kind of Guatemalan treasure one could possibly desire, from handmade clothing to beaded jewelry, fabrics, and elehphants made from precious stone. We were stymied once again with an empty ATM, so we perused the markets with our eyes only. (Turns out the ATM´s are only filled once a day at 4pm and not on the weekends, so by Sunday afternoon, they´re apparently empty). We had enough currency for vegetarian tacos, filling our empty tummies and then hopped back on the boat to return to San Pedro. Thankfully, The Buddha Bar, one of our favorite San Pedro hangouts was willing to change American currency for Quetzales so we could get back to San Marcos and our hotel, and be able to have dinner. Our adventures weren´t over yet, however, because as we got to the dock we were informed we´d missed the last boat, so we had to pay for a private trip to San Marcos. Granted it was only $7 per person for the trip, but that was highway robbery by Guatemalan standards. Ah well, I was happy to think of the nice supplement we´d provided to the boatman´s daily wages.
Once back in San Marcos, Helen and I returned to Fe for dinner and started the feast with a huge bowl of guacamole! We got back to Paco Real around 6:45pm to find the outside gate already locked and no one around. Cue Helen climbing over the gate in Indiana Jones style and thankfully running into another couple who had a key to the gate so it could be unlocked before I had to launch myself over it. We collapsed into our beds in fits of laughter over the ridiculously hilarious day of adventures we´d had.
It´s Monday, early noon here, and after a lovely breakfast of strawberry pancakes with honey, we have come back to San Pedro. We´ll be picking up our luggage in a bit, having some tacos for lunch, and then hopping a boat to Panachel at 3pm. How we´re going to get all of our things down the steep rocky path and hoisted onto the small boat, I have no idea. Once in Panachel, we board a mini-bus for the 5 hour drive to Guatemala City, arriving around 8 or 9pm. There we board a large coach bus which will take us, through the night, to Flores, Guatemala, which is by Tikal and the boarder of Belize. We should arrive around 6 or 7am tomorrow morning. Then it´s finding another bus to cross over into Belize and on to San Ignacio and Cornerstone Foundation. Quite the ride we have ahead!!
I´ve enjoyed Guatemala so immensely, I´m a bit hesistant to leave. But I know I can find my way back here again...as I´m sure I will. Time to get the gear ready for the next phase of this adventure!
¡Adios!
Monday, August 30, 2010
Friday, August 27, 2010
Thrills and Chills
What does one get in Guatemala for $3.00 (with the addition of sheer ironman strength)?? The thrill of a lifetime!!! Yesterday, after a morning full of conjugating Spanish verbs and learning how to give directions in Spanish, Helen and I, along with a group of new friends from New Zealand - we call them "The Kiwis" - rented kayaks, $3.00 for two hours. We kayaked across Lake Atitlan, about 2 miles to San Marcos, another small lakeside village where we tied our kayaks to the rocks and then climbed to these ridiculously steep cliffs. Once on top of the cliffs, we set all fear aside and JUMPED! Never been cliff diving before - never been so scared in my life - never had that much of an adrenaline rush....it was awesome! In addition to being grateful for the beautiful day, I was grateful for the opportunity to choose to be fearless yet again. I suppose those opportunities come often, and most days, but not often do they present themselves so tangibly and in-your-face, as blue waves crashing 20 meters below you, waiting for your arrival.
The two miles back to San Pedro seemed to go quickly and once docked, wet and exhausted, we stopped for some vegetarian tacos. Best tacos this side of the border. I love that they walk outside to their tree and pull off an avocado to slice it into your dish - how cool is that?! We even bought some banana bread from the "Pan Lady" as we call her. There are actually quite a few women who walk around with baskets of fresh baked goods on their heads. Once back at our house, we were fearless yet again, taking cold showers in the "bathroom." Super chilly! Makes it a bit tricky as it gets somewhat cold here in the evenings. (It can hardly be called a bathroom, yet there's no way to describe it - mostly a drain in the floor, a shower head tied to a pipe in the ceiling, and a toilet, all behind a curtained off area in the house).
That evening we put on our dancing shoes and went to Salsa! Had Salsa lessons for over an hour and it was hilarious and fantastic all at once. My partner, Danny (one of our Kiwi friends) was thankfully a newbie, just like me, and graciously put up with my awkwardness, while managing to spin me around perfectly. Before the night was over, I got a taste of serious salsa dancing, as the instructor, Lorenzo spun me around the room. I couldn't say exactly what my feet were doing, don't think there were any thoughts getting in the way in my head either - I just moved. Lots of fun!
Today has been a great day as well...last day of Spanish school, a lovely lunch by our Guadamadre (Guatemalan Madre (mother)), some checking into buses to Belize for Monday, walking around the town center, and emailing in The Buddha Bar. We have massages on the menu for later this afternoon, dinner, and an evening with friends that probably includes a few cuba libres and some salsa dancing!!
Hasta Luego!
The two miles back to San Pedro seemed to go quickly and once docked, wet and exhausted, we stopped for some vegetarian tacos. Best tacos this side of the border. I love that they walk outside to their tree and pull off an avocado to slice it into your dish - how cool is that?! We even bought some banana bread from the "Pan Lady" as we call her. There are actually quite a few women who walk around with baskets of fresh baked goods on their heads. Once back at our house, we were fearless yet again, taking cold showers in the "bathroom." Super chilly! Makes it a bit tricky as it gets somewhat cold here in the evenings. (It can hardly be called a bathroom, yet there's no way to describe it - mostly a drain in the floor, a shower head tied to a pipe in the ceiling, and a toilet, all behind a curtained off area in the house).
That evening we put on our dancing shoes and went to Salsa! Had Salsa lessons for over an hour and it was hilarious and fantastic all at once. My partner, Danny (one of our Kiwi friends) was thankfully a newbie, just like me, and graciously put up with my awkwardness, while managing to spin me around perfectly. Before the night was over, I got a taste of serious salsa dancing, as the instructor, Lorenzo spun me around the room. I couldn't say exactly what my feet were doing, don't think there were any thoughts getting in the way in my head either - I just moved. Lots of fun!
Today has been a great day as well...last day of Spanish school, a lovely lunch by our Guadamadre (Guatemalan Madre (mother)), some checking into buses to Belize for Monday, walking around the town center, and emailing in The Buddha Bar. We have massages on the menu for later this afternoon, dinner, and an evening with friends that probably includes a few cuba libres and some salsa dancing!!
Hasta Luego!
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
World Adventure Part III - Central America
San Pedro, Guatemala
I'm thinking that London, England was Part I, Europe (Greece and Spain) was Part II, and then after a month stop-over in the US, Central America is Part III. So, I'm on Part III of this world adventure and I am currently in Central America, San Pedro Guatemala to be exact. And very aware that I need to tell the stories I've left out in the last month or so...but for now - I'm sitting in The Buddha in this tiny lake-side village, having a pot of mint tea and watching the afternoon rainfall soak the botanical landscape that never had time to dry from last night. The mist has rolled in from Lake Atitlan and covers the green mountains in an eery and mystical way, and the locals walk about selling banana bread and nuts in baskets - sometimes carried on their heads. The village's dogs might find dry shelter for their nap, if they can be bothered to move. This is a place I've never fathomed before - could not have brought up in my imagination. The streets are so narrow that they feel like sidewalks, the brightly colored stucco buildings so close to the edges, it seems more like a path to walk down. They have bicycles, three-wheeled motor taxis, and motorcycles that effortlessly weave in and out of tourists and a few vans that brave the main roads - some rubbing paint against paint. I believe it's rainy season, hence the almost daily afternoon/evening rains, which means everything is damp but beautiful. The breeze is cool, and there are so many quaint little open-air cafes and restaurants that line the winding paths of the village.
Living with a family in a foreign-speaking land is something one should try to do - because in one swift moment you are completely thrown out of your comfort zone and into something real. I had a plate of black beans and tortillas for dinner last night, feeling very authentic, mumbled some spanish conversation, and generally waffled back and forth between feeling awkward and grateful. Thankfully my friend Helen is along for this adventure and we're staying together, each of us with our own room (something like a thin mattress with a sheet and blanket in a large room with one fluorescent lightbulb in the ceiling, damp stucco walls and tile floors). The bathroom is really an area with a curtain with a drain in the floor next to a toilet and a tiny sink - you don't close a door, you never walk barefoot, and you don't flush toilet paper. This is the real deal here in Guatemala.
Spanish school started today. For four hours I sat under a botanical canopy listening to birds and wildlife while my teacher attempted to bring forth all the years of spanish learned too many years ago. My brain hurts a bit - and I'm loving it. I'm determined to leave Central America in four months with some seriously good Spanish!
I've got until Sunday here in this beautiful paradise before Helen and I make our way to Belize. Flying into Guatemala City, I was dropped in Antigua for a few hours before my almost 4-hour journey to San Pedro. Antigua was lovely and big compared to this small village. Bright-colored buildings, dogs wandering, kids eating ice cream, volcano in the background, motorcycles driving recklessly, magenta colored flowers, cobblestone streets, and ancient buildings. The drive to San Pedro was like a carnival ride through the mountains and over pot-holes the size of small countries, and on slick pavement. Palm trees swayed next to pine trees, cows and donkeys grazed on the side of the road, random chickens darted around, trucks carrying too many pigs drove too fast, Latino women walked in their beautiful skirts in the rain, carrying baskets of goods on their heads while Latino men sat or stood in the back of pick-up trucks, some covered in tarps to stay dry. Graffiti competed with general destruction of the road-side buildings that appeared vacant and long-forgotton. Rocks and boulders lay strewn in the road from the mountainside and mudslides, and one had the sense that this is a place that "anything goes." The people seem friendly and flexible and generous and willing to deal with all of the gringos who have barely-there Spanish. I have a feeling this is going to be one special adventure.
Time to do my spanish homework...Hasta Luego!
I'm thinking that London, England was Part I, Europe (Greece and Spain) was Part II, and then after a month stop-over in the US, Central America is Part III. So, I'm on Part III of this world adventure and I am currently in Central America, San Pedro Guatemala to be exact. And very aware that I need to tell the stories I've left out in the last month or so...but for now - I'm sitting in The Buddha in this tiny lake-side village, having a pot of mint tea and watching the afternoon rainfall soak the botanical landscape that never had time to dry from last night. The mist has rolled in from Lake Atitlan and covers the green mountains in an eery and mystical way, and the locals walk about selling banana bread and nuts in baskets - sometimes carried on their heads. The village's dogs might find dry shelter for their nap, if they can be bothered to move. This is a place I've never fathomed before - could not have brought up in my imagination. The streets are so narrow that they feel like sidewalks, the brightly colored stucco buildings so close to the edges, it seems more like a path to walk down. They have bicycles, three-wheeled motor taxis, and motorcycles that effortlessly weave in and out of tourists and a few vans that brave the main roads - some rubbing paint against paint. I believe it's rainy season, hence the almost daily afternoon/evening rains, which means everything is damp but beautiful. The breeze is cool, and there are so many quaint little open-air cafes and restaurants that line the winding paths of the village.
Living with a family in a foreign-speaking land is something one should try to do - because in one swift moment you are completely thrown out of your comfort zone and into something real. I had a plate of black beans and tortillas for dinner last night, feeling very authentic, mumbled some spanish conversation, and generally waffled back and forth between feeling awkward and grateful. Thankfully my friend Helen is along for this adventure and we're staying together, each of us with our own room (something like a thin mattress with a sheet and blanket in a large room with one fluorescent lightbulb in the ceiling, damp stucco walls and tile floors). The bathroom is really an area with a curtain with a drain in the floor next to a toilet and a tiny sink - you don't close a door, you never walk barefoot, and you don't flush toilet paper. This is the real deal here in Guatemala.
Spanish school started today. For four hours I sat under a botanical canopy listening to birds and wildlife while my teacher attempted to bring forth all the years of spanish learned too many years ago. My brain hurts a bit - and I'm loving it. I'm determined to leave Central America in four months with some seriously good Spanish!
I've got until Sunday here in this beautiful paradise before Helen and I make our way to Belize. Flying into Guatemala City, I was dropped in Antigua for a few hours before my almost 4-hour journey to San Pedro. Antigua was lovely and big compared to this small village. Bright-colored buildings, dogs wandering, kids eating ice cream, volcano in the background, motorcycles driving recklessly, magenta colored flowers, cobblestone streets, and ancient buildings. The drive to San Pedro was like a carnival ride through the mountains and over pot-holes the size of small countries, and on slick pavement. Palm trees swayed next to pine trees, cows and donkeys grazed on the side of the road, random chickens darted around, trucks carrying too many pigs drove too fast, Latino women walked in their beautiful skirts in the rain, carrying baskets of goods on their heads while Latino men sat or stood in the back of pick-up trucks, some covered in tarps to stay dry. Graffiti competed with general destruction of the road-side buildings that appeared vacant and long-forgotton. Rocks and boulders lay strewn in the road from the mountainside and mudslides, and one had the sense that this is a place that "anything goes." The people seem friendly and flexible and generous and willing to deal with all of the gringos who have barely-there Spanish. I have a feeling this is going to be one special adventure.
Time to do my spanish homework...Hasta Luego!
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