It’s 2:30 in the afternoon and I’m sitting in the hammock on our balcony up on the big hill - overlooking most of San Ignacio. From my vantage point, the only thing I can see in front of me is a makeshift flagpole with two white rags tied to the end, flapping in the breeze. The fact that they are moving at all is a great sign...any kind of breeze to cut through the heat is something to rejoice at. But I was sitting here wondering what this “flag” was for, who put it up, what it represents?....Is it a surrender, a political statement, or merely a tool to see where the wind is coming from? Interesting. Everywhere else in Belize, the country flags are waving and posted around in great abundance. Small and large towns alike are preparing for the big celebration this coming weekend and into next week. It’s St. George’s Day this weekend, and this kicks off a huge 10-day festival to commemorate the founding of Belize and all sorts of important national pride moments. There’s activities, parades, fireworks, music in the streets, and even more lively entertainment than usual. San Ignacio is meant to come alive in a way we haven’t seen yet...how exciting!
So far, I’ve thought that San Ignacio and it’s sister city, across the flooded river, Santa Elena, have been vivid representations of Belizean culture - fully alive with street venders offering hot barbecue, tamales, and burritos, children playing, dogs barking, roosters crowing, pick-up trucks chugging up hills, locals selling avocados and plantains, and most everyone trying to find a shady spot to escape the ever-present heat.
This weekend we found a fantastic way to embrace the tropical heat - we went to the coast! A three-hour bus ride to Belize City and an hour-long water taxi ride found us on the pier of Caye Caulker, an island off the coast of Belize. The Caribbean water was five different shades of turquoise and the reggae music floated on the breeze. It was, quite simply - paradise. Our little shack of a hotel sat on the water’s edge and the first night the four of us girls laid on the dock watching the lightening show against the midnight backdrop while trillions of stars twinkled in a view that I haven’t seen in a really long time. Saturday brought an adventure of a life-time! We spent the whole day out on a sailboat, stopping at three different locations to snorkel. The first stop at The Reef was a bit like being in the movie, “Finding Nemo.” I actually saw Dory. And about a thousand other fish of every shape, color, and size, moving in and out of their coral neighborhoods, purple sea leaves floating, green grasses moving, and orange coral shining. It was spectacular! The reef is apparently the second largest one in the world after The Great Barrier Reef in Australia. Pretty cool.
The second stop was to Shark Ray Alley - and for the first time in my life, I swam with sharks! And stingrays, and barracudas, and ginormous (ugly) fish...beyond incredible. Our guide fed the sharks and rays some tiny fish so they would have something more appetizing than human flesh to get excited about. And I even got to touch the rough skin of a nurse shark and the slimy exterior of a stingray. I was constantly inhaling salt water because I couldn’t stop laughing in total amazement of what I was seeing! Our guide swam to the bottom and picked up a big conch shell and stuffed it with fish, setting it loose while the sharks and rays fought over the prize at the bottom of the ocean floor...quite a scene!
Our final stop was at Hoi Chan - the small channel where we swam with sea turtles and around more coral reefs. We found a sea cave and watched a few brave members of our group fill their lungs with extra oxygen before venturing through the tunnel, a school of huge fish trailing behind. On the ride back to the island, we soaked up the sun, drank rum punch, and needless to say, sat in awe of our day. Saturday night we joined new friends from England for dinner and then headed to a traditional reggae bar for music and rum punch! Bob Marley played on the loud speakers and we swung on wooden swings that the bar had substituted for chairs, our feet in the sand covered floor...having a blast.
Sunday we spent the day lounging in the sun and in the ocean. We spent most of our time at The Lazy Lizard at The Split. The split is exactly what it sounds like - the part of the island that was split when Hurricane Hattie came in 2006. It’s created a section of the island that is now separated by a small channel and is mostly a nature preserve. It’s also created a beach-type area with varying levels of water to play in. This is the northernmost part of the tiny island and a very chill place to be. By the time the water taxi pulled away from the pier at 4pm on Sunday afternoon, we all felt completely filled up from our island adventure...ready to head back to San Ignacio, but certain that we will return soon to the Cayes.
It’s Tuesday as I write this, and the last two days have been filled with meeting the Cayo District social worker, drafting relevant resumes, and helping out with the feeding program. I’m also involved with teaching an 18 year-old girl how to read and write - finding that getting to play school is pretty fun. I like giving star stickers! Tonight after a volunteer meeting, the kitchen will be our playground - a Belizean feast of bean and cheese quesadillas, homemade guacamole and salsa on the menu.
Wednesday, September 8, 2010
Wednesday, September 1, 2010
San Ignacio, Belize
It’s hard to put into words how incredibly light one’s spirit feels when helping others. I think it may have to do with the fact that whatever we give, we receive...so giving love and patience and kindness brings all of that right back in a swirly haze of lightness, hitting us right in the core of our spiritual foundation, throwing us a bit off balance in a wonderful kind of way.
My first day at Cornerstone was this kind of day. Last night, after a round of games and laughter with my four other housemates, I slept hard and deep while my inner thermometer tried to regulate my internal body temperature with the external blistering heat. I awoke to roosters crowing, trucks zooming by, and the sound of life on the streets. These first two weeks, we’re meant to sit back, take it all in, watch, listen, and decide how we want to make a difference. But in the meantime, there are things to jump on board with - such as the feeding program.
This foundation cooks for and delivers hot lunches to approximately 91 school children in the town and about 10 elders in the community. Today, we got to be a part of that small miracle. We helped load the rice and beans, potato salad, and chicken into containers, loaded the back of the pick-up truck, and set off. At Santa Elena school, we handed out the lunches to the flock of children in green and yellow jumpers, feeling a bit like caged animals, backed against the wall in the face of hungry kids. They were the loveliest kids - shy and belligerent, grateful and demanding, satisfied and still hungry, and playful and thrilled to see new faces. I get the sense that being a gringo baring food in front of 30+ kids is a lot like being rockstars at a concert. We went on to deliver the food to the elders, had a nice tour of the town, and then came back to the Foundation to sit in front of fans and in the hammock. Later this afternoon we’ll join the Women’s Group to participate in a presentation about AIDS and offer support and answer questions. There really is no limit to how one can make a connection here.
I feel incredibly lucky to be here - the people are brilliant, the opportunities are endless, and there’s nothing like seeing a new part of the world for the first time. There are five of us in the house - two girls in their young 20’s from San Francisco who know each other, Beth and Sarah, and Mario, also from the Bay area, by Berkeley, in addition to Helen and I. Mario’s gig is at the local hospital, Beth is in a special needs classroom at the local school (where we dropped off lunch), and Sarah is working with AIDS outreach. I’ve heard that there’s a women’s shelter in town, Mary Open Doors, that deals with domestic violence and that the children at this shelter are in need of counseling. My resume seems destined for this possibility, but I will keep my options open this week and see where I fit best. The Universe puts all kinds of marvelous things in our path if we’re willing to take a leap...so I trust that no matter where I end up offering my services, I will indeed be making a difference in this world.
My first day at Cornerstone was this kind of day. Last night, after a round of games and laughter with my four other housemates, I slept hard and deep while my inner thermometer tried to regulate my internal body temperature with the external blistering heat. I awoke to roosters crowing, trucks zooming by, and the sound of life on the streets. These first two weeks, we’re meant to sit back, take it all in, watch, listen, and decide how we want to make a difference. But in the meantime, there are things to jump on board with - such as the feeding program.
This foundation cooks for and delivers hot lunches to approximately 91 school children in the town and about 10 elders in the community. Today, we got to be a part of that small miracle. We helped load the rice and beans, potato salad, and chicken into containers, loaded the back of the pick-up truck, and set off. At Santa Elena school, we handed out the lunches to the flock of children in green and yellow jumpers, feeling a bit like caged animals, backed against the wall in the face of hungry kids. They were the loveliest kids - shy and belligerent, grateful and demanding, satisfied and still hungry, and playful and thrilled to see new faces. I get the sense that being a gringo baring food in front of 30+ kids is a lot like being rockstars at a concert. We went on to deliver the food to the elders, had a nice tour of the town, and then came back to the Foundation to sit in front of fans and in the hammock. Later this afternoon we’ll join the Women’s Group to participate in a presentation about AIDS and offer support and answer questions. There really is no limit to how one can make a connection here.
I feel incredibly lucky to be here - the people are brilliant, the opportunities are endless, and there’s nothing like seeing a new part of the world for the first time. There are five of us in the house - two girls in their young 20’s from San Francisco who know each other, Beth and Sarah, and Mario, also from the Bay area, by Berkeley, in addition to Helen and I. Mario’s gig is at the local hospital, Beth is in a special needs classroom at the local school (where we dropped off lunch), and Sarah is working with AIDS outreach. I’ve heard that there’s a women’s shelter in town, Mary Open Doors, that deals with domestic violence and that the children at this shelter are in need of counseling. My resume seems destined for this possibility, but I will keep my options open this week and see where I fit best. The Universe puts all kinds of marvelous things in our path if we’re willing to take a leap...so I trust that no matter where I end up offering my services, I will indeed be making a difference in this world.
Monday, August 30, 2010
San Marcos La Laguna
Spanish school ended on Friday and with the weekend staring us in the face, we decided to hop to another part of Lake Atitlan. Saturday we took a 10 minute boat to San Marcos (population 3,000). San Marcos is known as the prettiest of the lake-side villages with a lush tropical, botanical feel. It´s also known for its yoga retreats and general hippie atmosphere. Disembarking at the dock, which was partially underwater from all the rain, we were met by a young boy who took it upon himself to show us the way into town and to the hotel we were headed to. He spoke broken English, quite similar in excellence to our Spanish, and he was very sweet. He took us the backway through the village, walking on dirt paths, through forested areas and ferns the size of large children. We eventually arrived at Paco Real, and found a room. The boy left happily with a few Quetzales in his pocket and we collapsed on our beds.
Sunday we had a lovely lazy breakfast at Fe, owned by an Englishman with a penchant for chain smoking and leather loafers. The food is pricey by Guatemalan standards ($4.50 - 7.00 for an entree) but was fresh and delicious. Helen and I enjoyed the rainforest atmosphere, sitting outside with our tea, and then we took a boat back to San Pedro, hoping to find the ATM before our day trip to Santiago and the market. Unfortunately, the two ATM´s in San Pedro were empty, so we decided to take a leap of faith and head to Santiago anyway, hoping for the best. Running down the pier to catch the boat that was drifting out of the dock, it felt like a scene out of the movie. The locals on board were yelling at us to hurry and waving their hats and laughing...we made it, landing on a bag of avocados! We sat on the roof of the boat and watched village life go by on the hour ride.
Sanitago was beautiful! The market held every kind of Guatemalan treasure one could possibly desire, from handmade clothing to beaded jewelry, fabrics, and elehphants made from precious stone. We were stymied once again with an empty ATM, so we perused the markets with our eyes only. (Turns out the ATM´s are only filled once a day at 4pm and not on the weekends, so by Sunday afternoon, they´re apparently empty). We had enough currency for vegetarian tacos, filling our empty tummies and then hopped back on the boat to return to San Pedro. Thankfully, The Buddha Bar, one of our favorite San Pedro hangouts was willing to change American currency for Quetzales so we could get back to San Marcos and our hotel, and be able to have dinner. Our adventures weren´t over yet, however, because as we got to the dock we were informed we´d missed the last boat, so we had to pay for a private trip to San Marcos. Granted it was only $7 per person for the trip, but that was highway robbery by Guatemalan standards. Ah well, I was happy to think of the nice supplement we´d provided to the boatman´s daily wages.
Once back in San Marcos, Helen and I returned to Fe for dinner and started the feast with a huge bowl of guacamole! We got back to Paco Real around 6:45pm to find the outside gate already locked and no one around. Cue Helen climbing over the gate in Indiana Jones style and thankfully running into another couple who had a key to the gate so it could be unlocked before I had to launch myself over it. We collapsed into our beds in fits of laughter over the ridiculously hilarious day of adventures we´d had.
It´s Monday, early noon here, and after a lovely breakfast of strawberry pancakes with honey, we have come back to San Pedro. We´ll be picking up our luggage in a bit, having some tacos for lunch, and then hopping a boat to Panachel at 3pm. How we´re going to get all of our things down the steep rocky path and hoisted onto the small boat, I have no idea. Once in Panachel, we board a mini-bus for the 5 hour drive to Guatemala City, arriving around 8 or 9pm. There we board a large coach bus which will take us, through the night, to Flores, Guatemala, which is by Tikal and the boarder of Belize. We should arrive around 6 or 7am tomorrow morning. Then it´s finding another bus to cross over into Belize and on to San Ignacio and Cornerstone Foundation. Quite the ride we have ahead!!
I´ve enjoyed Guatemala so immensely, I´m a bit hesistant to leave. But I know I can find my way back here again...as I´m sure I will. Time to get the gear ready for the next phase of this adventure!
¡Adios!
Sunday we had a lovely lazy breakfast at Fe, owned by an Englishman with a penchant for chain smoking and leather loafers. The food is pricey by Guatemalan standards ($4.50 - 7.00 for an entree) but was fresh and delicious. Helen and I enjoyed the rainforest atmosphere, sitting outside with our tea, and then we took a boat back to San Pedro, hoping to find the ATM before our day trip to Santiago and the market. Unfortunately, the two ATM´s in San Pedro were empty, so we decided to take a leap of faith and head to Santiago anyway, hoping for the best. Running down the pier to catch the boat that was drifting out of the dock, it felt like a scene out of the movie. The locals on board were yelling at us to hurry and waving their hats and laughing...we made it, landing on a bag of avocados! We sat on the roof of the boat and watched village life go by on the hour ride.
Sanitago was beautiful! The market held every kind of Guatemalan treasure one could possibly desire, from handmade clothing to beaded jewelry, fabrics, and elehphants made from precious stone. We were stymied once again with an empty ATM, so we perused the markets with our eyes only. (Turns out the ATM´s are only filled once a day at 4pm and not on the weekends, so by Sunday afternoon, they´re apparently empty). We had enough currency for vegetarian tacos, filling our empty tummies and then hopped back on the boat to return to San Pedro. Thankfully, The Buddha Bar, one of our favorite San Pedro hangouts was willing to change American currency for Quetzales so we could get back to San Marcos and our hotel, and be able to have dinner. Our adventures weren´t over yet, however, because as we got to the dock we were informed we´d missed the last boat, so we had to pay for a private trip to San Marcos. Granted it was only $7 per person for the trip, but that was highway robbery by Guatemalan standards. Ah well, I was happy to think of the nice supplement we´d provided to the boatman´s daily wages.
Once back in San Marcos, Helen and I returned to Fe for dinner and started the feast with a huge bowl of guacamole! We got back to Paco Real around 6:45pm to find the outside gate already locked and no one around. Cue Helen climbing over the gate in Indiana Jones style and thankfully running into another couple who had a key to the gate so it could be unlocked before I had to launch myself over it. We collapsed into our beds in fits of laughter over the ridiculously hilarious day of adventures we´d had.
It´s Monday, early noon here, and after a lovely breakfast of strawberry pancakes with honey, we have come back to San Pedro. We´ll be picking up our luggage in a bit, having some tacos for lunch, and then hopping a boat to Panachel at 3pm. How we´re going to get all of our things down the steep rocky path and hoisted onto the small boat, I have no idea. Once in Panachel, we board a mini-bus for the 5 hour drive to Guatemala City, arriving around 8 or 9pm. There we board a large coach bus which will take us, through the night, to Flores, Guatemala, which is by Tikal and the boarder of Belize. We should arrive around 6 or 7am tomorrow morning. Then it´s finding another bus to cross over into Belize and on to San Ignacio and Cornerstone Foundation. Quite the ride we have ahead!!
I´ve enjoyed Guatemala so immensely, I´m a bit hesistant to leave. But I know I can find my way back here again...as I´m sure I will. Time to get the gear ready for the next phase of this adventure!
¡Adios!
Friday, August 27, 2010
Thrills and Chills
What does one get in Guatemala for $3.00 (with the addition of sheer ironman strength)?? The thrill of a lifetime!!! Yesterday, after a morning full of conjugating Spanish verbs and learning how to give directions in Spanish, Helen and I, along with a group of new friends from New Zealand - we call them "The Kiwis" - rented kayaks, $3.00 for two hours. We kayaked across Lake Atitlan, about 2 miles to San Marcos, another small lakeside village where we tied our kayaks to the rocks and then climbed to these ridiculously steep cliffs. Once on top of the cliffs, we set all fear aside and JUMPED! Never been cliff diving before - never been so scared in my life - never had that much of an adrenaline rush....it was awesome! In addition to being grateful for the beautiful day, I was grateful for the opportunity to choose to be fearless yet again. I suppose those opportunities come often, and most days, but not often do they present themselves so tangibly and in-your-face, as blue waves crashing 20 meters below you, waiting for your arrival.
The two miles back to San Pedro seemed to go quickly and once docked, wet and exhausted, we stopped for some vegetarian tacos. Best tacos this side of the border. I love that they walk outside to their tree and pull off an avocado to slice it into your dish - how cool is that?! We even bought some banana bread from the "Pan Lady" as we call her. There are actually quite a few women who walk around with baskets of fresh baked goods on their heads. Once back at our house, we were fearless yet again, taking cold showers in the "bathroom." Super chilly! Makes it a bit tricky as it gets somewhat cold here in the evenings. (It can hardly be called a bathroom, yet there's no way to describe it - mostly a drain in the floor, a shower head tied to a pipe in the ceiling, and a toilet, all behind a curtained off area in the house).
That evening we put on our dancing shoes and went to Salsa! Had Salsa lessons for over an hour and it was hilarious and fantastic all at once. My partner, Danny (one of our Kiwi friends) was thankfully a newbie, just like me, and graciously put up with my awkwardness, while managing to spin me around perfectly. Before the night was over, I got a taste of serious salsa dancing, as the instructor, Lorenzo spun me around the room. I couldn't say exactly what my feet were doing, don't think there were any thoughts getting in the way in my head either - I just moved. Lots of fun!
Today has been a great day as well...last day of Spanish school, a lovely lunch by our Guadamadre (Guatemalan Madre (mother)), some checking into buses to Belize for Monday, walking around the town center, and emailing in The Buddha Bar. We have massages on the menu for later this afternoon, dinner, and an evening with friends that probably includes a few cuba libres and some salsa dancing!!
Hasta Luego!
The two miles back to San Pedro seemed to go quickly and once docked, wet and exhausted, we stopped for some vegetarian tacos. Best tacos this side of the border. I love that they walk outside to their tree and pull off an avocado to slice it into your dish - how cool is that?! We even bought some banana bread from the "Pan Lady" as we call her. There are actually quite a few women who walk around with baskets of fresh baked goods on their heads. Once back at our house, we were fearless yet again, taking cold showers in the "bathroom." Super chilly! Makes it a bit tricky as it gets somewhat cold here in the evenings. (It can hardly be called a bathroom, yet there's no way to describe it - mostly a drain in the floor, a shower head tied to a pipe in the ceiling, and a toilet, all behind a curtained off area in the house).
That evening we put on our dancing shoes and went to Salsa! Had Salsa lessons for over an hour and it was hilarious and fantastic all at once. My partner, Danny (one of our Kiwi friends) was thankfully a newbie, just like me, and graciously put up with my awkwardness, while managing to spin me around perfectly. Before the night was over, I got a taste of serious salsa dancing, as the instructor, Lorenzo spun me around the room. I couldn't say exactly what my feet were doing, don't think there were any thoughts getting in the way in my head either - I just moved. Lots of fun!
Today has been a great day as well...last day of Spanish school, a lovely lunch by our Guadamadre (Guatemalan Madre (mother)), some checking into buses to Belize for Monday, walking around the town center, and emailing in The Buddha Bar. We have massages on the menu for later this afternoon, dinner, and an evening with friends that probably includes a few cuba libres and some salsa dancing!!
Hasta Luego!
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
World Adventure Part III - Central America
San Pedro, Guatemala
I'm thinking that London, England was Part I, Europe (Greece and Spain) was Part II, and then after a month stop-over in the US, Central America is Part III. So, I'm on Part III of this world adventure and I am currently in Central America, San Pedro Guatemala to be exact. And very aware that I need to tell the stories I've left out in the last month or so...but for now - I'm sitting in The Buddha in this tiny lake-side village, having a pot of mint tea and watching the afternoon rainfall soak the botanical landscape that never had time to dry from last night. The mist has rolled in from Lake Atitlan and covers the green mountains in an eery and mystical way, and the locals walk about selling banana bread and nuts in baskets - sometimes carried on their heads. The village's dogs might find dry shelter for their nap, if they can be bothered to move. This is a place I've never fathomed before - could not have brought up in my imagination. The streets are so narrow that they feel like sidewalks, the brightly colored stucco buildings so close to the edges, it seems more like a path to walk down. They have bicycles, three-wheeled motor taxis, and motorcycles that effortlessly weave in and out of tourists and a few vans that brave the main roads - some rubbing paint against paint. I believe it's rainy season, hence the almost daily afternoon/evening rains, which means everything is damp but beautiful. The breeze is cool, and there are so many quaint little open-air cafes and restaurants that line the winding paths of the village.
Living with a family in a foreign-speaking land is something one should try to do - because in one swift moment you are completely thrown out of your comfort zone and into something real. I had a plate of black beans and tortillas for dinner last night, feeling very authentic, mumbled some spanish conversation, and generally waffled back and forth between feeling awkward and grateful. Thankfully my friend Helen is along for this adventure and we're staying together, each of us with our own room (something like a thin mattress with a sheet and blanket in a large room with one fluorescent lightbulb in the ceiling, damp stucco walls and tile floors). The bathroom is really an area with a curtain with a drain in the floor next to a toilet and a tiny sink - you don't close a door, you never walk barefoot, and you don't flush toilet paper. This is the real deal here in Guatemala.
Spanish school started today. For four hours I sat under a botanical canopy listening to birds and wildlife while my teacher attempted to bring forth all the years of spanish learned too many years ago. My brain hurts a bit - and I'm loving it. I'm determined to leave Central America in four months with some seriously good Spanish!
I've got until Sunday here in this beautiful paradise before Helen and I make our way to Belize. Flying into Guatemala City, I was dropped in Antigua for a few hours before my almost 4-hour journey to San Pedro. Antigua was lovely and big compared to this small village. Bright-colored buildings, dogs wandering, kids eating ice cream, volcano in the background, motorcycles driving recklessly, magenta colored flowers, cobblestone streets, and ancient buildings. The drive to San Pedro was like a carnival ride through the mountains and over pot-holes the size of small countries, and on slick pavement. Palm trees swayed next to pine trees, cows and donkeys grazed on the side of the road, random chickens darted around, trucks carrying too many pigs drove too fast, Latino women walked in their beautiful skirts in the rain, carrying baskets of goods on their heads while Latino men sat or stood in the back of pick-up trucks, some covered in tarps to stay dry. Graffiti competed with general destruction of the road-side buildings that appeared vacant and long-forgotton. Rocks and boulders lay strewn in the road from the mountainside and mudslides, and one had the sense that this is a place that "anything goes." The people seem friendly and flexible and generous and willing to deal with all of the gringos who have barely-there Spanish. I have a feeling this is going to be one special adventure.
Time to do my spanish homework...Hasta Luego!
I'm thinking that London, England was Part I, Europe (Greece and Spain) was Part II, and then after a month stop-over in the US, Central America is Part III. So, I'm on Part III of this world adventure and I am currently in Central America, San Pedro Guatemala to be exact. And very aware that I need to tell the stories I've left out in the last month or so...but for now - I'm sitting in The Buddha in this tiny lake-side village, having a pot of mint tea and watching the afternoon rainfall soak the botanical landscape that never had time to dry from last night. The mist has rolled in from Lake Atitlan and covers the green mountains in an eery and mystical way, and the locals walk about selling banana bread and nuts in baskets - sometimes carried on their heads. The village's dogs might find dry shelter for their nap, if they can be bothered to move. This is a place I've never fathomed before - could not have brought up in my imagination. The streets are so narrow that they feel like sidewalks, the brightly colored stucco buildings so close to the edges, it seems more like a path to walk down. They have bicycles, three-wheeled motor taxis, and motorcycles that effortlessly weave in and out of tourists and a few vans that brave the main roads - some rubbing paint against paint. I believe it's rainy season, hence the almost daily afternoon/evening rains, which means everything is damp but beautiful. The breeze is cool, and there are so many quaint little open-air cafes and restaurants that line the winding paths of the village.
Living with a family in a foreign-speaking land is something one should try to do - because in one swift moment you are completely thrown out of your comfort zone and into something real. I had a plate of black beans and tortillas for dinner last night, feeling very authentic, mumbled some spanish conversation, and generally waffled back and forth between feeling awkward and grateful. Thankfully my friend Helen is along for this adventure and we're staying together, each of us with our own room (something like a thin mattress with a sheet and blanket in a large room with one fluorescent lightbulb in the ceiling, damp stucco walls and tile floors). The bathroom is really an area with a curtain with a drain in the floor next to a toilet and a tiny sink - you don't close a door, you never walk barefoot, and you don't flush toilet paper. This is the real deal here in Guatemala.
Spanish school started today. For four hours I sat under a botanical canopy listening to birds and wildlife while my teacher attempted to bring forth all the years of spanish learned too many years ago. My brain hurts a bit - and I'm loving it. I'm determined to leave Central America in four months with some seriously good Spanish!
I've got until Sunday here in this beautiful paradise before Helen and I make our way to Belize. Flying into Guatemala City, I was dropped in Antigua for a few hours before my almost 4-hour journey to San Pedro. Antigua was lovely and big compared to this small village. Bright-colored buildings, dogs wandering, kids eating ice cream, volcano in the background, motorcycles driving recklessly, magenta colored flowers, cobblestone streets, and ancient buildings. The drive to San Pedro was like a carnival ride through the mountains and over pot-holes the size of small countries, and on slick pavement. Palm trees swayed next to pine trees, cows and donkeys grazed on the side of the road, random chickens darted around, trucks carrying too many pigs drove too fast, Latino women walked in their beautiful skirts in the rain, carrying baskets of goods on their heads while Latino men sat or stood in the back of pick-up trucks, some covered in tarps to stay dry. Graffiti competed with general destruction of the road-side buildings that appeared vacant and long-forgotton. Rocks and boulders lay strewn in the road from the mountainside and mudslides, and one had the sense that this is a place that "anything goes." The people seem friendly and flexible and generous and willing to deal with all of the gringos who have barely-there Spanish. I have a feeling this is going to be one special adventure.
Time to do my spanish homework...Hasta Luego!
Thursday, July 22, 2010
City Highlights
Barcelona, or Barca, as it’s often referred to, has been wonderful. Sunday night I went to Palau De La Musica for the Spanish Opera y Flamenco show, and it was fantastic! I had one of the box seats in the first balcony, so I was somewhat perpendicular to the stage and I leaned over the railing the whole show, eyes wide, completely mesmerized by their moves. It was sort of like Lord of the Dance - meets tap dancing - meets belly dancing - meets ballroom dancing...it was spectacular. The building itself was also a worthy sight, with lovely architecture in the Art Nouveau style. I wandered the very crowded night-time streets of Barca back to my hotel, with a spanish beat in my head.
Monday, I took the tour bus through Barca’s most famous sights - and in a nutshell, this is what I saw: We drove down Passeig de Gracia (famous street that’s very wide and has all the high end shopping - the place to be seen), saw the facades of some of Gaudi’s famous buildings in the middle of the busy city - Casa Battlo and Casa Mila (more on him in a moment) - which are completely perplexing and unbelievable, walked through Park Guell, toured Sagrada Familia (church in process), saw the Olympic Village, walked along the beach, waterfront, and old port, looked up at the Columbus Monument, drove up Montjuic to see the views of the city, the Olympic Stadium, and then visited Poble Espanyol (a Spanish Village).
A bit deconstructed now...
Passeig de Gracia is a very cool street - it’s tree-lined like La Rambla and it’s sidewalks are as wide as two lanes of traffic. It also boasts stores like Rolex, Burberry, Prada, Gucci, Diesel, H&M, and more. However, jammed in between designer labels and cafes, one of Gaudi’s notorious buildings is nestled on display. Case Battlo is a multicolored creation with a rooftop that’s reminiscent of the scaled-back of a dragon. And I hear - that’s exactly what his inspiration was.
Gaudi was unknown to me prior to stepping foot in Spain - so sorry architectural digest. However, I’ve had the pleasure of getting to know him a bit better and he’s oh so fascinating. Antoni Gaudi was born in 1852 (near Barcelona), and he’s known for his futuristic designs and his integration of art nouveau with catalan modernism and the gothic art elements. His works are so original and so ‘out there’ that he’s left an unforgettable mark on the urban structure of Barcelona. He’s big on color, imaginative sculptural decoration, recycled materials (i.e., broken ceramic pieces from cups, plates, etc. for his mosaics), references to Catalan culture (dragons), nature, and religion. His vision could only ever be described as ‘out-of-the-box’ and completely original. I’m a huge fan.
Guell Park (named for the money man who footed the bill) is a lasting shrine to one of Gaudi’s loveliest works. Gaudi was commissioned to create an ideal town plan (in 1900) that promised a radically new way of life. The garden-city was created with it’s own roads throughout the park, ceramic mosaic benches and sculptures and waterfalls, a few houses, a town square...and more. And it failed. In the 1920’s when people were brought to look at the new development, like a model home, they couldn’t fathom living there - it was too wild, too unstable looking with all it’s curved architecture and whimsy. It never did fulfill its dream and Gaudi left it alone to focus on his most prominent contribution - Sagrada Familia. I thoroughly enjoyed the park - it’s a new party for the eyes around every corner, and one can’t help but feel like they got lost in some part of Disney’s magic kingdom...it’s a bit of fantasy in a huge park, in the middle of a big city.
Sagrada Familia - it’s a bit overwhelming. It’s considered Gaudi’s masterpiece. And it’s not finished yet. The first stone was laid in 1882 and he dedicated 43 years of his life to this work, the last 12 years, almost exclusively - even living in his workshop in the church, until his unexpected death in 1926 (he was hit by a tram). His artistic design of the church is so modern and futuristic that when one actually sees it, it seems impossible for it to be a church. But Gaudi was severly religious and his desire to symbolize the life of Christ is everywhere in his work. There are to be three monumental facades (2 currently built), 18 towers (12 dedicated to the apostles), the highest one dedicated to Jesus rising 170 meters, five isles in the interior, and every window with brightly shining stained glass. Work has been nonstop for the last 80 years, since his death, in exactly the same vein as his original designs. They hope to have it done by 2030. They’re hoping for major progress by November - when the Pope comes! The outer facades are remarkable and out of this world - but walking inside steals your breath away. I only heard the word “WOW” being muttered. It’s massive and mind-bending and so very, very cool. And this wonderment is possible even with the cranes, the dust, the jackhammers, and the construction crew that works non-stop. As Rick Steves’ says, “If there is one building in the world I hope to see finished - it’s this one.”
Montjuic was another favorite. Known as the “Mountain of the Jews” - a castle was built on the hill in 1640 for defense of the city. The views of Barcelona and the coast are fantastic and there are many sculptures around the grassy, park-like areas. La Sardana was my favorite - a sculpture of 8 stone dancers which captures the essence of the Catalan people and Barcelona itself. In this area of the city, El Poble Espanyol resides. It was originally built for the 1929 World Fair and is basically a Spanish village replica of all the autonomous regions of Spain. It’s enclosed behind tall stone walls and has shops with different artisans, cafes with mediterranean cuisine, and galleries with contemporary masters like Picasso, Dal, and Miro. It’s like being in a city within a city, and might be something like “the wild west”, but more Spanish ;). I rather enjoyed my jaunt around the different regions of Spain, and my lunch of tapas.
My Flamenco Night at La Palau De Musica
Park Guell
La Sagrada Familia
Montjuic
Monday, I took the tour bus through Barca’s most famous sights - and in a nutshell, this is what I saw: We drove down Passeig de Gracia (famous street that’s very wide and has all the high end shopping - the place to be seen), saw the facades of some of Gaudi’s famous buildings in the middle of the busy city - Casa Battlo and Casa Mila (more on him in a moment) - which are completely perplexing and unbelievable, walked through Park Guell, toured Sagrada Familia (church in process), saw the Olympic Village, walked along the beach, waterfront, and old port, looked up at the Columbus Monument, drove up Montjuic to see the views of the city, the Olympic Stadium, and then visited Poble Espanyol (a Spanish Village).
A bit deconstructed now...
Passeig de Gracia is a very cool street - it’s tree-lined like La Rambla and it’s sidewalks are as wide as two lanes of traffic. It also boasts stores like Rolex, Burberry, Prada, Gucci, Diesel, H&M, and more. However, jammed in between designer labels and cafes, one of Gaudi’s notorious buildings is nestled on display. Case Battlo is a multicolored creation with a rooftop that’s reminiscent of the scaled-back of a dragon. And I hear - that’s exactly what his inspiration was.
Gaudi was unknown to me prior to stepping foot in Spain - so sorry architectural digest. However, I’ve had the pleasure of getting to know him a bit better and he’s oh so fascinating. Antoni Gaudi was born in 1852 (near Barcelona), and he’s known for his futuristic designs and his integration of art nouveau with catalan modernism and the gothic art elements. His works are so original and so ‘out there’ that he’s left an unforgettable mark on the urban structure of Barcelona. He’s big on color, imaginative sculptural decoration, recycled materials (i.e., broken ceramic pieces from cups, plates, etc. for his mosaics), references to Catalan culture (dragons), nature, and religion. His vision could only ever be described as ‘out-of-the-box’ and completely original. I’m a huge fan.
Guell Park (named for the money man who footed the bill) is a lasting shrine to one of Gaudi’s loveliest works. Gaudi was commissioned to create an ideal town plan (in 1900) that promised a radically new way of life. The garden-city was created with it’s own roads throughout the park, ceramic mosaic benches and sculptures and waterfalls, a few houses, a town square...and more. And it failed. In the 1920’s when people were brought to look at the new development, like a model home, they couldn’t fathom living there - it was too wild, too unstable looking with all it’s curved architecture and whimsy. It never did fulfill its dream and Gaudi left it alone to focus on his most prominent contribution - Sagrada Familia. I thoroughly enjoyed the park - it’s a new party for the eyes around every corner, and one can’t help but feel like they got lost in some part of Disney’s magic kingdom...it’s a bit of fantasy in a huge park, in the middle of a big city.
Sagrada Familia - it’s a bit overwhelming. It’s considered Gaudi’s masterpiece. And it’s not finished yet. The first stone was laid in 1882 and he dedicated 43 years of his life to this work, the last 12 years, almost exclusively - even living in his workshop in the church, until his unexpected death in 1926 (he was hit by a tram). His artistic design of the church is so modern and futuristic that when one actually sees it, it seems impossible for it to be a church. But Gaudi was severly religious and his desire to symbolize the life of Christ is everywhere in his work. There are to be three monumental facades (2 currently built), 18 towers (12 dedicated to the apostles), the highest one dedicated to Jesus rising 170 meters, five isles in the interior, and every window with brightly shining stained glass. Work has been nonstop for the last 80 years, since his death, in exactly the same vein as his original designs. They hope to have it done by 2030. They’re hoping for major progress by November - when the Pope comes! The outer facades are remarkable and out of this world - but walking inside steals your breath away. I only heard the word “WOW” being muttered. It’s massive and mind-bending and so very, very cool. And this wonderment is possible even with the cranes, the dust, the jackhammers, and the construction crew that works non-stop. As Rick Steves’ says, “If there is one building in the world I hope to see finished - it’s this one.”
Montjuic was another favorite. Known as the “Mountain of the Jews” - a castle was built on the hill in 1640 for defense of the city. The views of Barcelona and the coast are fantastic and there are many sculptures around the grassy, park-like areas. La Sardana was my favorite - a sculpture of 8 stone dancers which captures the essence of the Catalan people and Barcelona itself. In this area of the city, El Poble Espanyol resides. It was originally built for the 1929 World Fair and is basically a Spanish village replica of all the autonomous regions of Spain. It’s enclosed behind tall stone walls and has shops with different artisans, cafes with mediterranean cuisine, and galleries with contemporary masters like Picasso, Dal, and Miro. It’s like being in a city within a city, and might be something like “the wild west”, but more Spanish ;). I rather enjoyed my jaunt around the different regions of Spain, and my lunch of tapas.
My Flamenco Night at La Palau De Musica
Park Guell
La Sagrada Familia
Montjuic
Saturday, July 17, 2010
Espana, Take-Two
Waking up in a new city is like stumbling across a shoe sale at your favorite store that you weren't expecting...it's exciting, a bit overwhelming, and full of wonder. I woke up in Barcelona this morning, and first impressions are completely favorable. It's charming. I haven't ventured very far away from my immediate neighborhood yet - I'm at Balmes Hotel on Carrer de Mallorca, in the L 'Eixample district. This means I'm six blocks from Placa de Catalunya which is where La Rambla starts and makes its way one mile to the coast. La Rambla is meant to be a Spanish version of the Champs Ellysees in Paris, but even better ;).
So far, my surroundings include tree-lined streets, outdoor cafes, a lot of bicycle and motor-cyclers, and big buildings that have tall, narrow french doors with slatted shutters as coverings - and one immediately calls to mind a spanish woman standing on the balcony, dress flowing against the wrought-iron rails, a painted fan in her hand and eyelashes fluttering.
My short history of the Spanish language is only partially useful here as they speak Catalan in Barcelona - but I've been successful so far as I know how to ask if they speak English ;). In addition to further foot exploration tomorrow - I have an evening at Palau De La Musica - which Rick Steves says is an often overlooked gem. I'm taking in a Spanish Opera and Flamenco show and am really looking forward to it. Monday, I will board the tourist brigade and hop on one of those Barcelona City tour buses...my saving grace is that I see all the things I want to see in one day, and can then decide where I want to go back to for more. The bus tour is one thing - the walking tour with the orange umbrellas held up, the foreigners following like a parade of ducks, and yellow stickers on your shirt are a completely different ball game - that I want no part of!!
My evening holds more perusing of Spanish history and reading of places of interest in Spain's second city. It's lovely already, and I'm looking forward to getting to know her even better.
So far, my surroundings include tree-lined streets, outdoor cafes, a lot of bicycle and motor-cyclers, and big buildings that have tall, narrow french doors with slatted shutters as coverings - and one immediately calls to mind a spanish woman standing on the balcony, dress flowing against the wrought-iron rails, a painted fan in her hand and eyelashes fluttering.
My short history of the Spanish language is only partially useful here as they speak Catalan in Barcelona - but I've been successful so far as I know how to ask if they speak English ;). In addition to further foot exploration tomorrow - I have an evening at Palau De La Musica - which Rick Steves says is an often overlooked gem. I'm taking in a Spanish Opera and Flamenco show and am really looking forward to it. Monday, I will board the tourist brigade and hop on one of those Barcelona City tour buses...my saving grace is that I see all the things I want to see in one day, and can then decide where I want to go back to for more. The bus tour is one thing - the walking tour with the orange umbrellas held up, the foreigners following like a parade of ducks, and yellow stickers on your shirt are a completely different ball game - that I want no part of!!
My evening holds more perusing of Spanish history and reading of places of interest in Spain's second city. It's lovely already, and I'm looking forward to getting to know her even better.
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