Saronic Sailing

Monday I found my way back to Athens, via Poseidon Hella (Ferry Name), which appeared more crowded, dirty, and unfriendly than before, having just come from my own personal paradise. I saw Frank off to England and chilled at The London Hotel, another Greek salad on the menu. Tuesday morning came early and brought with it an entire day sailing around the Saronic Gulf. First stop was Hydra - my personal favorite of the three islands we visited. We sailed on a three-level mini cruise ship for about three hours to get to Hydra. And it was totally worth it. This island with the whitewashed buildings and terra cotta roofs stacked into the mountain does not allow cars or mopeds (the transportation of choice on most islands). So as you approach the marina full of sailboats, the crescent of land boasting tavernas and jewelry shops, one sees dozens of donkeys milling around, waiting to cart you and your belongings up the cobblestone pathways of the village. It’s idyllic. The donkeys wear bright colored rugs and have boxes hanging from them for your bags to rest in, and the donkey men (is there a name for these people?!) haggle the prices as if it were a taxi fare. I was transfixed for quite some time watching the comings and goings of this popular port.

Eventually, I made my way up a few narrow passageways, into art studios and shops of jewelry makers, bakeries with fresh baklava, and passed the dozens of cats milling around and sunning themselves on the stones. On my way back to the port, I happened to glance at the taverna I was passing and got a huge surprise. The two lovely people (the Brit and the Kiwi) I’d met in Agistri, with whom I’d spent an entire day of boating, were sitting at a table. Of course this would happen to me - how lucky indeed - as they had left the island before my chance to get their contact info. Silly Universe.

The next island was Paros - right across from the coast of the Peloponnese. Also very quaint and picturesque with sailboats and markets and busy foot traffic. The water here was similarly aqua blue and clear to the bottom. It was a short stop, but a lovely stop, before our third and final island - Aegina.

I hadn’t paid attention to the details, and had no idea I was stopping at Aegina. This island is the second biggest of the Saronic Islands, and is 10 minutes away from Agistri! I had been looking at this island from the balcony of my room, I had stopped at this island on the ferry, en route to Agistri, and now I was actually going to visit it. A bus took us around the island, up into the mountains, past the groves of olive trees and pistachio trees, to the place where centuries-old churches still stand (most in ruin), carved into the side of the mountain, from the time when pirates invaded the island. 365 churches had been built back in the day, one for every day of prayer to save the people from the pirates. A final walk through the town centre, passing the fish markets and the cats in wait, ended up back at the boat as the sun was beginning to lower. I waved another goodbye to Agistri, across the water, and settled into the sun deck for the final rays of an amazing day.

Hydra





Paros




Aegina